SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
PatternReview.com
PatternReview.com

Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting Issues Colette Patterns Laurel ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Fitting Issues Colette Patterns Laurel
pederzani
pederzani
Member since 6/21/11
Posts: 42
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 3/22/13 8:24 AM

So I made colettes newest pattern.

I'm really new to fitting issues though, and don't know what I should do as far as pattern alterations.

I'm a d cup, so I'm sure a full bust adjustment would help a bit, but would that also help the back of the collar stay flat?

Should I add some more width overall to the main pattern pieces?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
-- Edited on 3/22/13 8:52 AM --
-- Edited on 3/22/13 11:45 AM --

pederzani
pederzani
Member since 6/21/11
Posts: 42
Send Message

      



Date: 3/22/13 8:27 AM






-- Edited on 3/22/13 8:53 AM --

SecondHandRogue
star
SecondHandRogue  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Rhode Island USA
Member since 12/28/05
Posts: 656
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 3/22/13 10:58 AM

Its a really cute top, great color on you too. I've been looking at this and waiting for a more experienced member to chime in first, but I know what it feels like to sit around waiting for some input so I'm going to hesitantly go first here.

I think that the issue is not just the bust, the whole top is too tight above the waist. It's really pulling across the top of the back, under your arms, and I think the upper sleeves look at bit snug too. If this were a very sleek style I might tinker with fitting, but I think it's intended to be a bit looser. Look at the model from the back, the fit in the shoulders is relaxed. Call me lazy, but I'd cut out a size bigger, I think it would be a good start. You might not want it much wider in the hips, but that is a way easier alteration than what you're working with.

Keep posting pics as you go! I can't wait to get this one in the mail...

pederzani
pederzani
Member since 6/21/11
Posts: 42
Send Message

      



In reply to SecondHandRogue <<


Date: 3/22/13 11:04 AM

I'm already in the largest size, otherwise I would have tried to size up a bit, but according to my measurements I should fit much better than I am in this?

Thank you for your advice though!

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8279
Send Message

      



In reply to pederzani <<
thumbsup 2 members like this.


Date: 3/22/13 11:23 AM

First things first. When posting pictures for fitting help you need to stand with your arms down. Just the act of putting your hands at your waist distorts the fit.
Yes, you need an fba and maybe you need more room at the back, but it may be that it is just pulling to the front to give you room you need there. The neck could be the bias binding, that is what finishes the neck isn't it? But it might be the shape of the shoulder where it meets your neck. Or it could be a forward neck or a rounded upper back but I can't see that in these photos. A side picture with you standing erect and arms at side can tell me this.
One, I'd fit this without finishing the neckline, but I stay the neckline so that it doesn't stretch out when fitting.
Secondly I'd cut this with wide side seams and the wide sleeve seams, 1" to 1 1/4" so that you have room to alter when fitting.
When making a muslin don't finish it. The aim is to make it accurate but fast. Use either muslin or a plain light colored fabric so that all the wrinkles can be seen.
The fba will give you some extra room across the front as well as using wider sas. It's a simple top and easy to alter.

-- Edited on 3/22/13 11:25 AM --

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

pederzani
pederzani
Member since 6/21/11
Posts: 42
Send Message

      



In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 3/22/13 11:35 AM

Thank you for your suggestions. I didn't intend to make a muslin originally, because I don't usually have a ton of fit issues with this companies patterns, hence the finished garment.

pederzani
pederzani
Member since 6/21/11
Posts: 42
Send Message

      



In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 3/22/13 11:50 AM

When I get off of work I'll post some photos with my arms down.

lakaribane
star
lakaribane
Beginner
HAITI
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2121
Send Message

      



Date: 3/22/13 12:44 PM

I want to add that your camera angle seems to be a bit high. If you are using a tripod, maybe try to have the center of the lens half way up your body (around your navel or about) and then move it back until your feet show.

You can then crop the photo to just show the bodice but all parts of the image should be equal then.

Re: bias, did you stretch is slightly along the curve of the neckline as you sewed it to the garment? For this kind of delicate work, I pin the garment directly to my board as I press for more control.

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

pederzani
pederzani
Member since 6/21/11
Posts: 42
Send Message

      



In reply to lakaribane <<


Date: 3/22/13 12:50 PM

My boyfriend took the pictures for me, he's taller which might explain the angle.

I don't think I stretch out the bias tape or anything as I sewed it, I tend to use a lot of pins when I finish with bias tape which keeps it in place pretty well.

aliesje
star
aliesje
Advanced Beginner
CANADA
Member since 3/27/10
Posts: 61
Send Message

      
thumbsup 4 members like this.



Date: 3/22/13 1:29 PM

I'm no fitting expert, but i generally think your top looks very niceThe shoulder point looks - to me - to be in exactly the right place. And I adore swiss dot. it's so fabulous!

One thing I notice is that it seems that your bust dart/point is too high, and needs to be lowered - maybe 1 - 1.5 inches. The dart should point to the fullest part of the bust. I also have this prob on Colette patterns - I think a lot of people do (check out sorbetto reviews). Her bust points are really high.

I like the "box method" for moving darts. If you google "box method moving bust dart" you'll find a number of sites, and you can choose the one that makes the most sense to you. I learned it in a Singer sewing book. Most basic sewing books should have it. Unfortunately, Colette's doesn't (just checked).

I think that you'll want to move the bust dart/point before doing the FBA. (oh wait - you want to do it AFTER. Thanks to michellep74 for the correction!)

With respect to bias necklines, this tutorial seems pretty good: http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/02/15/sewing-tutorial-getting-flat-bias-necklines/

I'm unclear if the issue you're having with the back neckline is the bias binding being persnickety, or if there's some gaping. If it's gaping going on (most of us had major back neckline gaping with Peony), I'd check out this post by Madalynne, and then measure your pattern pieces. http://www.madalynne.com/front-and-back-neck-width

To fix the gape, some people dart it out: http://inhousepatterns.com/blogs/news/5931847-fitting-and-pattern-correction-back-neckline-gaping.

Here's another resource on dealing with gaping - though I'm not sure how it would play out the back piece for Laurel: http://phatchickdesigns.blogspot.ca/2008/07/fitting-tutorial-removing-neck-gape.html.


-- Edited on 3/22/13 1:32 PM --
-- Edited on 3/22/13 4:57 PM --

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Fitting Issues Colette Patterns Laurel

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Altering Pants
Altering Pants

Register

Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts

Register

Vogue Patterns 8594

photo
by: blessedtos...

Review
Sew Liberated Sunday Picnic Blouse and Dress

Sew Liberated Sunday Picnic Blouse and Dress

Buy Now
Favorite Things Little Hip Skirts Pattern

Favorite Things Little Hip Skirts Pattern

Buy Now
Simplicity 5704

photo
by: wendlesue

Review

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.