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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Fitting Problems with Pants Muslin ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting Problems with Pants Muslin
Fitting Woes
Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/27/13 11:27 AM

Pictures of Pants Muslin - 4 Views - Front, Back, Right & Left Sides

To see the pictures, please copy and paste the address below in your web browser's address line.

http://www.friendsofpr.com/liles/album.html

These pictures might not be adequate. I do not have on shoes, and do not have anyone who can take pics today.

I would appreciate any suggestions on how to fix the problems with this pants muslin. To start with, the left side seam is crooked. I posted a question about how to correct this and did not have any photos with the question. Thank you Nancy for replying.

I have made a lot of adjustments to this muslin. I had to shortened the legs because I had so many problems I could not make any progress with a full length muslin. When I shortened the pants legs, I did not get the length even on both legs.
I tried about four different full length muslins and just gave up on doing full length because all the fitting problems were too overwhelming. I did not know what I was doing or how to do it.
Here are some adjustments I have made from reading fitting info online: Minott Method for KK, widened the right back panel from the knee up because the right hip is about 2 inches wider than the left hip, narrowed the left back panel because the left hip is slimmer than the right hip and so is the left thigh - had a vertical fold on this panel, lowered the back crotch and widened the back inseams 1/4 inch, and made adjustment for sway back. I think my left hip is higher than my right hip. It may not look like it in the photos. I am still confused about which hip is higher - the right or the left. I have a forward titled pelvis. Also, the pants legs are not the same width. I have worked on this but do not have it corrected.

The front and back side seams are pinned together not sewn together.

I appreciate your help and expertise.
-- Edited on 3/27/13 11:51 AM --
-- Edited on 3/27/13 12:07 PM --
-- Edited on 3/27/13 12:25 PM --
-- Edited on 3/27/13 3:54 PM --

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/27/13 12:38 PM

Can't see the photos.
I think you have to make a link to your FofPR album right in your post.

Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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In reply to sewsally <<


Date: 3/27/13 1:14 PM

Thank you for your reply. Were you able to copy and put the web address in
your browser? When I do that from my computer, the pics show up.
Will your browser not show the photos by doing that? I am sorry to
take up your time, but I have had a problem trying to post my pics.

Thank you.

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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In reply to Liles <<


Date: 3/27/13 2:24 PM

Yes copy and paste worked. I just couldn't find the album using Bing search.

Those pants look pretty good. Will have to look closer to see the problem you described.

purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 3/27/13 2:58 PM

Are you working on a basic fitting shell? If yes, I noticed that your waistline dips down in the front. It should be level, so you'd need to add extra length to your center front.

The pant legs are too short, which distorts the overall look. It's preferable to make them the right length for the shoes you plan to wear with them and put the shoes on prior to taking a picture. But no need to redo the pair just to make them longer.

If you hadn't marked the vertical center line, I wouldn't have noticed that the right leg is crooked.

I don't think your pants are half bad at all. What specifically don't you like about them?

Claudia

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/27/13 3:02 PM

By left side seam - do you mean its not vertical but tilts toward the back?

Please mark you level hip on your muslin all the way around. This is perpendicular to your grainline.

Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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In reply to purplebouquet <<


Date: 3/27/13 3:28 PM

Thank you for your reply. Yes, I am working on a basic pants muslin for
a pattern. I did not realize how low the CF waistband looked. Thanks for
pointing that out. The front crotch was too long and I pinched a tuck across the front of the pants. The front of the waistband hits me at my natural waist and feels comfortable. Do I still need to add length to the front waistband to make it look level? Will that not make the front crotch too long?

Also, yes you are correct. The right pant leg is crooked. I need to work on that.

Specifically, what's wrong with this pants muslin are these things: the left side seam is crooked and the legs are not even in width.

Thank you again.

Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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In reply to sewsally <<


Date: 3/27/13 3:35 PM

Thank you for your reply.
My left side seam does not hit the center of the side of my leg down to my ankle, and there is more fabric showing from the back of the leg. The front of the leg near the hem looks more narrow than the back of the leg.

Marking my level hip instruction - how do I mark my level hip measurement all the way around the waist? I am sorry if this sounds dumb, but I do not have a sewing buddy.

woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
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In reply to Liles <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 3/27/13 4:16 PM

Liles,

Congratulations on your pants. So far, so good.

In your first post, you mentioned your left hip. This hip is higher than your right hip. You can tell by the bottom of your undies. See how the left leg on your undies is higher than your right side?

I can't see your shoulders but I suspect your right shoulder is lower than your left. You probably also have a longer slope on your right side at your waistline. You might have to make the right side longer at the waist to properly fit your waist. You can just raise the right side up a bit. Try 1/2 inch or so.

The top of your pelvis is slanting down on the right side which causes your right fanny to be flatter than your left. This is why your right side is broader than your left. You have more roundness to your left fanny then the right fanny.

Your pelvis tilts down towards the right which is causing hip fluff or a bulge on your left high hip. You may not have enough material over the bulge on that side. High hip fluff requires more width and length of material to have the pants hang correctly. Next on the left side, right below the high hip bulge you indent a bit and below this indent is a slight bulge above your thigh where your pelvis meets your leg. This looks a bit snug in that area. You might have to release the side seam on that side a bit.

You state your pant legs look as if they are a different size. If you copied your pant legs exactly from your pattern, then the right and left leg should be the same size. I think one leg looks larger than the other due to the tilt of your pelvis. The right side of your fanny changes the way the right pant leg hangs on that side of your body. It is possible you have a slight twist in your spine along with a two tilts: a forward pelvis tilt and a downward tilt.

The reason why I think it is the tilt of your pelvis causing this issue is because I have the same problems. My left side is higher and my left fanny is rounder then my right side. My right pant leg looks wider than my left but it is the exact same size as the left side.

You have a forward tilting pelvis meaning the top of your pelvis tilts towards your front with a bit of a belly. Your belly can cause the pants to hang up on your front - I have the same issue. I know what you mean when you say the waistline is fitting your front because the front of your waistline slopes down from your sides.

I have finally discovered that my shape cannot have a center front seam on grain meaning it cannot be straight up and down. The center front seam for me needs to be slanted towards the torso of the pants.

To mark your hip line on your pattern, measure up 2 inches from the top of the curve of your pants. Draw a line across the pants from center back seam to side seam. This line needs to be straight across. You might have to make a new muslin to make this line across the front and back on your muslin. You want the front hip line and the back hip line on your muslin to match when sewn.

When you did the Minott method did you cut your pattern at the knee and slide it inward? If so, how did you draw the side seam lines on the left and right side sides? Did you make separate patterns for your sides? You might need a separate pattern for your left front, a pattern for your left back, a pattern for your right front and a pattern for your right back. If you used the same pattern pieces for your right and left side, this could be the reason why you are having problems with your left side seam. Your left side is not shaped the same as your right side. This could be the reason why the left leg is not plum down your side.

Please don't get discouraged. You have done a really great job on these pants. I have spent 12 years trying to get pants to fit me and am still tweaking my pattern due to my body shape changing every few months.

Fitting books do not discuss alterations for a tilted pelvis because it is not an easy fix. I have done many, many alterations to my pants and just this past weekend tried a few more that seem to be working a bit better.

Woggy


-- Edited on 3/27/13 4:19 PM --
-- Edited on 3/27/13 4:20 PM --

Liles
Liles  Friend of PR
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In reply to woggy <<


Date: 3/27/13 5:59 PM

Woggy,

You have certainly opened up my eyes. Thank you for sharing your expertise, knowledge, and insight about my specific problems especially about which hip was higher. I need to make another muslin. I will make the adjustments on the left hip as you suggested. Originally, I made the pants from four different pieces - RF, LF, RB, & LB. Concerning the Minnott Method and Pants Width problems - I cut the pants at the knee and moved the inseam in 1/2 inch. Then I used a yardstick and redrew the side seams and used a fashion ruler to redraw the inseams. I do not know what I did to make the pants uneven in width, but I must have messed up somewhere. I will try to correct this before I cut out the pants muslin as my pattern.
By the way, in the picture of the front pants muslin, the right front inseam looks like it is too wide; it shows up from the knee to the hem between the legs. This is due to my adding 1/4" to the back inseam allowance, but I am pretty sure this looked wide before I added the 1/4". Adding to the width of the back inseam removed a lot of wrinkling from the crotch down. I found that info on one of your reviews. That was a major breakthrough for me.
You are right. My right shoulder is lower than my left shoulder, and I have a longer slope at the waist on the right side. I have added fabric at the top of the waist on the right side to accommodate for this. Do the pictures look like I need to add more?
Concerning your hip line instructions, (measure up 2" above the top of the curve) does that mean the top of the hip curve? Will this line be for a reference point because my right and left hip lines will be different? Or, were you telling me to do that in order to get the side seam hip curves in the right place on my body. Sorry, I am not sure about what I'm doing.

Thank you again. I do appreciate your help!

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