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Message Board > "Gigi's" Expert Forum - (READ ONLY) > Bust

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Bust
how to keep the armhole in shape.
siobhan
siobhan
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/02
Posts: 104
Date: 12/25/02 11:51 PM

Dear Gigi,

Hope you are having a lovely Christmas day.
I have been  playing with a size 10 pattern.
My high bust is 34 but if I use a 12 it is too big everywhere else.

I find I have to alter the bust about 2 1/2 inches wwith a size 10 and the armhole seems distorted.
What are your thoughts on this?
I am really enjoying the board.  I went to a sewing teacher last year and she had the FFRP book.  She did a skirt and a blouse with the class using tissue fit but I have since found that she did not really pick up a lot of my  figure peculiarities.
I was disappointed with the results. of my lessons but I am going to keep on trying.
Thanks for you r Help
Siobhan

Gigi Louis
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Gigi Louis
Advanced
Member since 4/4/02
Posts: 7876
Date: 12/26/02 8:33 AM

When you make a full bust adjustment it is normal for the shape of the armhole to change.  A larger busted figure needs a differently shaped armhole to achieve a better fit.   Just keep following and trusting the FFRP methods - after awhile it will become second nature to you. :D

Everyday Sewist
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Everyday Sewist
Advanced Beginner
USA
Member since 9/14/02
Posts: 2707
Date: 12/26/02 1:53 PM

Gigi, I had the same problem that Siobhan described. I have to add 2/1/2 inches for bust too. The alteration pushes the armhole up so high that there are wrinkles around it. I've been cutting it down just a little to give myself a little more room there. I like the fit of shoulders & neck so I really don't want to go up a size.

However, I have been thinking about adding a little width at the side seams. This would also make my sleeve alteration easier, since I have a large bicep. Then I'm thinking I could just add 1 or 1.5" for bust and 1/4" for broad back (currently my back adjustment is 3/4"-1" which is hard to ease in at the shoulders.)???

What do you think? Is there something I'm missing with the FFRP method?

Gigi Louis
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Gigi Louis
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Member since 4/4/02
Posts: 7876
Date: 12/26/02 5:12 PM

Yes, you can add a little at the side seam - preferably using the pivot and slide method so that the armhole doesn't get too large.  But as you mentioned, you have a large bicep so you might experiment a little.  You can add using P&S and then cut the armscye a tad larger if you have to during fitting.

And, my, you have a really broad back. :D  Yes, I can see how that would be nearly impossible to ease into the front shoulder!  How does the back armscye fit?  Sometimes you can add a little right there blending into the side seam.  

I really believe that there is more than one way to alter - after all, we are all shaped so differently and have different combinations of challenges.  If something makes sense to you, try it.  If it works on your body that's all that matters.

Now, I'm just curious:  are you both altering for the bust by 2.5" on each and every pattern as a rule?  Or are you checking each pattern to see how much that particular style requires?

siobhan
siobhan
Advanced
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/02
Posts: 104
Date: 12/26/02 6:18 PM

Dear Gigi,
I see what you mean a bout a smaller armhole.  My bust apex is actually  below where my arm meets the body.  In answer to your question about the addition of 2.5 inches.... it depends on what kind of pattern I am using.  If it's a loose kind of shirt I might only have to add 13/4 or 2 inches.  Patterns all have different wearing ease so it pays to check them.

Cheers from sunny Australia.
Siobhan

Everyday Sewist
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Everyday Sewist
Advanced Beginner
USA
Member since 9/14/02
Posts: 2707
Date: 12/26/02 10:11 PM

Thanks Gigi. Yes I do have a broad back. I started out adding just 1/2" but it was still tight, and I think the tightness is located too low to use a "round back" adjustment.

I wear mostly fairly fitted clothes. I did recently make a loose t-shirt and for that one I noticed I didn't need to add as much. Next time I'll probably just blend to one size larger at the bust & below for loose-fitting styles.

And yes, when I first started sewing I also made the mistake of adding too much at the side seams and ending up with a huge armhole.  So I will be careful to avoid doing that  again. :D

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