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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fit issue with back neckline ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fit issue with back neckline
How to fix a gaping neckline
Izybel18
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Izybel18
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Date: 4/1/13 6:43 PM

I'm finishing up Simplicity 2209 for the first time, and just now realized a fit issue with the back neckline gaping. I was busy concentrating on how terrible my zipper looked, so I didn't notice the neckline until all I've got left is the hem.

I probably won't fix this dress, but I'd like to know what to do to adjust the pattern for the future. I mostly sew with knits, so fit isn't always something I work on! The fabric is a stretch poplin and there is a facing, if that information is helpful!

Pics here and here.

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LauraTS
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Date: 4/1/13 7:14 PM

Looks like you have a narrow upper back, perhaps? For this project you can take some darts on the neckline to take up the excess - this is a detail seen in a lot of vintage patterns so it shouldn't look so weird. In the future, you probably want to check this before you put in the zipper so you can take in the CB seam if necessary.

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Nancy K
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In reply to Izybel18 <<


Date: 4/1/13 8:52 PM

I agree, this is an easy fix with two small darts at the neckline. Since you've already sewn on the facing, you'll have to take darts at the same place and size in the facing as well. You look like you have prominent shoulder blades that are causing the neckline to gape. This is not an unusual dart placement, even though it's rarely seen in rtw.

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sewsally
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Date: 4/1/13 11:01 PM

Did you stay stitch the back neckline as soon as it was cut out?

It looks stretched out to me.

-- Edited on 4/1/13 11:01 PM --

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 4/2/13 8:09 AM

I'm with Nancy saying you have prominent shoulder blades. I have one prominent shoulder blade and I'm faced with this problem.

There are a couple solutions. Divide the fullness of the gap by two, this is the width of one dart for each shoulder seam. Another thing you can do is release the shoulder seam at the neckline, down to the middle of the seam. Then pull up on the back shoulder seam, making it overlap a bit, about 1/4" to 3/8" on the front shoulder seam.

Next time you make something like this, I suggest you cut out of muslin the upper portion down to the armhole notch, making something that looks like a long collar. Adjust the shoulder seams by overlapping the back portion to the front. Sew this together. Cut it apart on the stitching lines, and then you have a template to use.

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Izybel18
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Date: 4/2/13 8:24 AM

Thanks everyone! I should mention that the zipper is on the side seam, not CB, so I think the darts will work for fixing this dress. I did staystitch it so I don't think it's stretched out.

Thank you Miss Fairchild for the suggestion moving forward. I couldn't think how to adjust the neckline only, since the rest of the bodice is snug/fits just right. I'll try a muslin with overlapping shoulder seams.

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Marie367
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In reply to Izybel18 <<


Date: 4/2/13 9:37 AM

I almost always have this problem. My neck seems to be smaller than the pattern I need for across my back. I take in a small dart (or tuck) in the pattern before I cut which seems to work for me. Darts now will work fine-like someone said older patterns use to include a dart anyway so it will look like it is suppose to be there.

couturemom
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Date: 4/3/13 6:47 AM

I always have this problem as well. And not just on the neckline - I usually end up taking out 1+ inches on the center back. This post reminds me to watch out for this when there's no CB closure, as it's harder to adjust at the end.

EleanorSews
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In reply to LauraTS <<
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Date: 4/3/13 8:30 AM

Laura TS has given you the best answer, for now and for the future. It pretty much goes without saying for me that the top of the center back seam gets taken in by 1/2" and then I taper that to about 1/3 of the way down from neck to waist. It's a relatively easy fix for you to add darts at this point.

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Izybel18
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Date: 4/3/13 4:35 PM

Just wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions! I added two small darts and the issue is solved! I actually really like the look with this particular pattern (it has darts and pleats everywhere anyway) so I think I'll draw these darts in and do them again moving forward. I wasn't able to make them in the back and the back facing separately because of how the bodice was constructed, but I'll do that in the future.

Pics here and here.

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