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Forum > Fitting Woes > bow-leg adjustment and grain line ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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bow-leg adjustment and grain line
how to determine grainline placement
rieski
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rieski  Friend of PR
Maryland USA
Member since 7/18/09
Posts: 164
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Date: 4/7/13 3:43 PM

I am slavishly pursuing a well-fitting pants pattern. I'm using the Eurkea! Pants pattern and I am so close (after 6 muslins I would hope to be close). Anyhow, I've added 1/4" to the side seam at the knee. Two questions -- 1) Can I just taper that to zero at the inseam or is it necessary to reduce the inseam by the same amoun? 2) How do you determine the new grainline? If I lay a straight edge from the unadjusted grain line (also the center line) above the knee, the new line is definitely not in the center below the knee -- is that correct?

I guess I have 3 questions -- 3) If a bow-leg adjustment is made do the pant legs (front and back) have to be re-centered, i.e. Add to the inseam and deduct from the side. Somehow it seems that would negate the impact of the side seam bow leg adjustment.

Any help would be hugely appreciated. I really want to move on from the muslin stage but don't want to until I have the above figured out.

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
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Date: 4/7/13 4:03 PM

I don't know a lot about this adjustment, but I can get you started. Draw a line at the knee area perpendicular to the grain line arrow, cut the pattern on this line and move the entire bottom pantleg toward the side seam, for both front and back, as much as needed.

Edited because I actually had written the dreaded "alot". Ugh. How in the world had I done that?
-- Edited on 4/8/13 12:25 PM --

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 4/8/13 8:14 AM

Gl is right on. Make the adjustment in half inch increments.

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Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to rieski <<


Date: 4/8/13 8:41 AM

Before you make your alteration make sure that the grainline extends to the top and bottom of the pattern. Afterwards use the bottom grainline, which will still be perpendicularl to the hem and extend it upwards.
The other option is to fold the pattern leg in half, front and back and make sure that your hem lines match up when you fold them. match inner and outer leg as far up as you can. This is your new grainline. The back leg usually needs the grainline moved towards the side seam. Just measure a line parallel to the new grainline, mark and that will be your grainline on the back piece. Remember grainlines, unless cut on the bias, need to be perpendicular to hem and the floor.

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