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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > 2-Way Stretch Taffeta and Vogue Pattern 8190 ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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2-Way Stretch Taffeta and Vogue Pattern 8190
How do I position the pattern on the material?
KVF Designs
KVF Designs
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Subject: HELP! Plz! 2-Way Stretch Taffeta and Vogue Pattern 8190 Date: 4/9/13 7:37 PM

The material for this dress is a two way stretch Taffeta that has a LENGTHWAYS stretch! So instead of stretching across the grain, like I thought it would... it stretches with the grain. Then i got another surprise when I opened the pattern, the body of the dress pattern is in a half circle!
Sigh... for some reason I thought there were going to be equal amounts of rouching on front and sides, so that the stretch could just be placed across the body... but no...
so now how do I lay the pattern on the fabric? on the bias? so that the stretch starts going across the body, and ends up all sideways at the hip area? ARGH! I will post photos below.

Also... this dress seems to run big... anyone know how big? My niece fits the measurements for size 14 perfectly... but this is supposed to be a very tight fitted dress! and according to the numbers on the actual pattern pieces that would give her 2" of ease... I think it would look like a SACK on her! Oi! So... I think I have decided to go with the size 12... any thoughts on that?
-- Edited on 4/9/13 11:02 PM --

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KVF Designs
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Date: 4/9/13 7:55 PM

Ok, so here is a pic of how I am THINKING of laying out the pattern... do you think this will work???



Also here is a link to the pattern online. I will also be adding a lace overlay on top of this fabric.

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Add_1_Full/V8190.jpg

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I fall somewhere in that grey area between Intermediate and Advanced. In my specific specialties I rock. In new stuff? well.. not so much! LOL

JEF
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In reply to KVF Designs <<


Date: 4/9/13 10:34 PM

I think I see a grain line on the pattern piece. I would just use that. I would be more concerned about nap when deciding to lay it lengthwise or cross wise. Which would look smoother down the center front of the dress?

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KVF Designs
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Date: 4/9/13 10:42 PM

There is no nap to the fabric. Its two way stretch taffeta. its very smooth in any direction. I am trying to figure out where to make the stretch fall in the pattern. It stretches lengthwise with the grain, so I can't do it the way the pattern says to, otherwise it will stretch down towards the floor.

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I fall somewhere in that grey area between Intermediate and Advanced. In my specific specialties I rock. In new stuff? well.. not so much! LOL

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 4/9/13 11:04 PM

There is more to "nap" than texture.

Color can be bright in one direction and dull in the opposite direction.

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KVF Designs
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In reply to PattiAnnJ <<


Date: 4/9/13 11:13 PM

ahh I C about the brightness. but again, not really worried about that, as its going to get covered in lace

Does anyone have any thoughts as to how to position this circular pattern piece on a fabric that has lengthwise to the grain stretch, instead of cross grain?

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I fall somewhere in that grey area between Intermediate and Advanced. In my specific specialties I rock. In new stuff? well.. not so much! LOL

petro
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Date: 4/10/13 5:04 AM

I have just looked at a blog post on this dress, is the circular pattern piece the flounce? How stretchy is the stretch?

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Pamela R
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Date: 4/10/13 10:46 AM

Did the pattern call for stretch? and will the lace stretch, or will it stablize the stretch?

craftinginmycave2
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In reply to KVF Designs <<


Date: 4/10/13 1:56 PM

I, too, see a grainline marking on piece #3. Why not lay that on the grain that you want? In this picture, it's on the bias.

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craftinginmycave2
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Date: 4/10/13 1:58 PM

Another thought is to interline with a more stable fabric or interfacing to just the flounce piece.

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