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Modifications for dance costume
Simplicity 1623
BriarRose
BriarRose
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Date: 4/10/13 6:46 PM

I am making a costume for a dance performance using Simplicity 1623, a Khaliah Ali princess line dress with sleeve variations. There are no reviews on this pattern and I have a couple of questions before I start.

1. The empire bodice is sized for stretch knits, the long skirt for woven fabrics. I've not combined these fabrics in this way before. Can someone offer tips or caveats? It isn't a complex pattern and I will be doing a FBA.

2. When turning a standard pattern into a dance costume I generally add gussets or leave the underarms unstitched for better movement. This pattern offers a sleeve that is open at the top of the shoulder. Might this open sleeve style and knit fabric combination make the gusset unnecessary? Obviously I can't leave both upper and lower sleeve unstitched unless I contemplate gluing the fabric to my arm.

------
I've quit fighting my inner demons. We're on the same side now.

It's just fabric; we can out-think it.

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/14/13 1:58 AM

I double checked the back of the envelope and the skirt can be either a knit or woven.
It does show a back zipper, that would be needed with a woven skirt.
The sleeve looks fairly fitted, even the one with open shoulder. You might have to baste it together, to determine if you need the gusset or not.
It's a nice design, it will make a great costume.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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British Columbia CANADA
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In reply to BriarRose <<


Date: 4/15/13 10:20 AM

I agree with diane that you will have to try it an see if the open sleeve gives enough space. The good news is that you won't have to flatten the sleeve cap!

If you decide to do the woven skirt, just be sure that it will fit over your hips. Even with a zipper, I can see potentially making this too tight to get into. I have a similar project coming up, so I will be interested in your progress on this one.

------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

BriarRose
BriarRose
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Date: 4/16/13 5:15 PM

Thank you both. Seamstresses on my dance site also expressed some concern about getting the woven skirt snug enough on the body to enhance dance movments while still allowing freedom of movement (we're belly dancers). As long as the skirt fits well and skims the hips and waist smoothly so that small movments can be seen I don't think lack of stretch in this area will be a problem.

My main concern is joining a stretch fabric to a woven fabric. Any pitfalls I should be aware of? I haven't worked with knits all that often. I thought I'd stabilizethe bottom of the bodice with a strip of silk organza so that it doesn't stretch during sewing.

------
I've quit fighting my inner demons. We're on the same side now.

It's just fabric; we can out-think it.

tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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British Columbia CANADA
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In reply to BriarRose <<


Date: 4/16/13 8:18 PM

That might be a good idea. When I have attached woven to stretch, the woven has been on the bias like this so the main concern is to keep the woven (pink) from stretching out while applying it. Careful pinning seems to be enough. Here's another one. The dark blue is silk chiffon, with the godet on the bias again. I may have used some wash away wonder tape to stabilize that because it is extremely fine.

I do use a walking foot for most of my sewing but (I had to run and check!) that one was done with a three thread serger stitch.

Good luck and show us the dress when you are done!

------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

annakeeton
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annakeeton  Friend of PR
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New York USA
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In reply to BriarRose <<


Date: 4/17/13 7:19 PM

Hi there, I just started bellydancing last year and am experimenting with making my own costumes. For the woven & knit combination, I would hand baste those seams before sewing them. Am in process of creating a close fitting, mermaid skirt made of 4-way stretch lycra knit with 4 godets made of poly chiffon. Sewing in the godets was on the chiffon's partial bias; I serged the chiffon edges, hand basted the chiffon to the lycra, then sewed the seams with a long straight stitch with a walking foot and that worked well. I use 100% poly thread for sewing synthetics and I used a microtex needle for the woven/knit seams, rather than a stretch needle as used on the seams that are only lycra.
-- Edited on 4/17/13 7:20 PM --

BriarRose
BriarRose
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Date: 4/19/13 1:02 AM

Thanks for the information, Anna, and welcome to the world of belly dance. I've been dancing and/or teaching for 35 years now. I'm also the moderator for the costumes subforum of the oriental dancer.net site. Lots of costume junkies there if you care to check us out sometime.

I've about decided to make the whole dress in panne first since I'm a tad short on time and don't want to have to do a close fitting, put in a zipper, or experiment with techniques on a tight schedule.
I also have the most beautiful piece of turquoise fabric that I'd forgotten until rearranging my fabric this weekend...

------
I've quit fighting my inner demons. We're on the same side now.

It's just fabric; we can out-think it.

annakeeton
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annakeeton  Friend of PR
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New York USA
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In reply to BriarRose <<


Date: 4/19/13 6:30 AM

BriarRose- Thanks so much for the info about that website. I'll definitely check it out. Turquoise panne sounds like a great option.

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