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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > frech dart question

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frech dart question
how to properly sew a french dart - silhouette pattern
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/12/13 9:45 PM

I have the sweater set pattern from silhouette and I need some advice in sewing the french dart. the dart starts near the waist and goes upward. on the pattern - it's slashed, but above the top of the slash - about 3/4 -1 " is a dot. You are supposed to sew the dart to that dot.

I've been reading about sewing french darts and they say that you maintain the seam allowance to the end of the slash and then curve the balance of the seam to the dart.

Is that information accurate? If so, I'm not exactly sure what the best way is to do that. seems like a rather drastic curve even with the 3/8" seam allowance. going from 3/8 to -0- within about 1 ". I'm trying to eliminate the point like I got the last time I sewed this pattern. (attempted to sew).

if the dart is meant to be curved from the base (opening) up to the point, shouldn't I use a french curve or something and try to round it off above the slash point - a little more gradually up to the dot?

does any of this make sense?

thanks! waiting for some feedback before I sew it.
-susie

Changma
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Changma  Friend of PR
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 4/12/13 9:53 PM

I don't have the answer but I will be watching this thread- I just ordered the pattern yesterday.

Sewandwrite
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Sewandwrite  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/12/13 11:12 PM

You may be interested in this recent thread.

avatrx

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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 4/13/13 10:15 AM

this is my proposed sewing of the french dart. is this correct? I can only put this link in, I have no clue as to how to post a photo.

maybe this will work. if not - click the link below. click here

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ccxqnbbct2llwet/french%20dart%20before%20sewing.jpg
-- Edited on 4/13/13 10:17 AM --
-- Edited on 4/13/13 10:27 AM --

PeppermintPam

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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 4/13/13 10:46 AM

The dart is not curved, it is a straight line from the dot to the side seam. Fold your fabric like you're ready to sew the dart, then imagine laying a piece of string (held taught) from the dot to the side seam (3/8" from the edge). That is your stitching line. You can move the dot in order to make the dart longer or shorter as needed, but again imagine the string (your stitching line) from the dot to the side seam. The line always remains straight. You can always mark the stitching line with a ruler and chalk if that will help you.

Peggy demonstrated sewing the french dart on one of her webcasts and she sews from the tip (or dot) to the side seam. Also she recommends sewing with a stitch length of 4.0 on knits so that the fabric doesn't get stretched or distorted by the stitches being too close together. HTH.

avatrx

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In reply to PeppermintPam <<


Date: 4/13/13 11:05 AM

Quote:
The line always remains straight. You can always mark the stitching line with a ruler and chalk if that will help you.


so is my chalk line correct? the perpendicular line is where I put the dot.

perhaps I angled in too far?

photo
-- Edited on 4/13/13 11:07 AM --
PeppermintPam

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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 4/13/13 3:06 PM

Sorry, my internet was down for a while. I'm not sure what you mean by 'angled in too far', but as long as your line is straight you should be fine. You could always machine baste it first and see how it looks.

Remember too, the french dart is just like a regular side dart, except the extra fabric in the middle of the dart has been trimmed away (to reduce bulk). Imagine a regular side dart. Now imagine if you marked cutting lines 3/8" from the stitching lines of the dart, and trimmed that triangle of fabric out of the center of the dart while the fabric is flat (before stitching the dart, and cutting on the lines you just marked). Now, how would you sew that dart? It would be a little confusing at first, wouldn't it? This is the exact same thing, we're just not used to seeing our darts this way, and that's where the confusion comes in I think. HTH

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 4/13/13 3:17 PM

Comes running from across the room to look at the picture...
Can I throw something in here?

Do you see where the green dot is? I got it from the pattern as you can see more dots underneath. The dot is where the actual dart ends, not the slash. The short line is where the slash in the dart ends. Stitch 3/8'' inch starting at the left, and then start to taper beginning a little ''south'' of the short line (where the slash ends), so that when you finally reach the dot, you are off the edge. Take a look at this photo, your stitching line is in the red.


I think your curve is too sharp.

I much prefer sewing my darts from the tip downward, because it's easier to start off the edge, then gradually move onto the seam allowance. It's as if you are driving a car onto the highway from an emergency lane; you want to gradually merge in with traffic.

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avatrx

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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/13/13 6:38 PM

Quote:
Stitch 3/8'' inch starting at the left, and then start to taper beginning a little ''south'' of the short line (where the slash ends), so that when you finally reach the dot, you are off the edge.


so judging from my photo earlier - would you say I'm still out to far? the light blue is where the fold begins.


photo
-- Edited on 4/13/13 6:45 PM --
Miss Fairchild
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 4/13/13 9:42 PM

Yes, I think you're out too far from the edge. Also, if you look at my photo, my dart runs in a straight line and I see yours has a corner (near the blue arrow). That's what's throwing me, and more than likely you, off. Take a look at my picture (I've rotated it to be the same orientation as yours)

Now take a look at yours. Do you see the '''corner''? There is nothing protruding where my fold begins (at the short vertical line) That might be what is causing your problem. Are you putting in a 5/8'' seam allowance at the bottom of the dart? You shouldn't; it should be 3/8''

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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