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Message Board > Sergers, Coverstitch and Blindhemmers > Serger Seam Bulk at Cross Seams ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Serger Seam Bulk at Cross Seams
Sunshine12242
Sunshine12242
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Date: 4/13/13 4:15 PM

Is there a method to use when I've serged a shoulder seam and then cross that seam to add sleeve, collar etc. I always get an obvious bump at the meeting place of them.

Thank you

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/14/13 10:37 AM

You could press only the serger seam allowance to flatten it a bit, before crossing that seam to add on the sleeve, etc., but I've never read or been told to do that. Really, nobody notices the little bumps/ lumps when the garment is being worn.

craftinginmycave2
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In reply to Sunshine12242 <<


Date: 4/14/13 1:45 PM

Here's a very fussy method I was taught:

1. Assume you're starting with your shoulder seam, snip about 1/4" from joining edge and serge from snip to end.

2. Line up your sleeve to shoulder, where the shoulder seam would cross, you have that clipped end. Pin the shoulder seam bits open (imagine if you had sewn it with a sewing machine and opened the seam). Serge your sleeve.

Because you've opened the shoulder portion, it's not as much fabric to go through.

The finished result is quite pretty, but I told ya it was fussy.

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CSM--Carla
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Date: 4/14/13 2:19 PM

Maybe this tip will help you. It's slightly different from what you're asking but the idea is the same, I think. (Thanks to Gigi via Debbie Cook's coverstitch tutorials.)

Pj3g
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In reply to Sunshine12242 <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 4/14/13 5:15 PM

I just cut a little snippet off the end that seam that will be serged again. This cut is above the needle thread part of the serged seam and is less than the amount of whatever of your new serger stitching you'll be doing because you want your new row of serger stitches to 'catch' past the part you have snipped away. This wee little bit cut off really helps with that bump issue.

I do hope that makes sense. So hard to describe what I do.

------
Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my Father who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

Sunshine12242
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In reply to Sunshine12242 <<


Date: 4/14/13 5:53 PM

Thank you all for the great hints. They will definitely solve the "bump" problem.

sew2006
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Date: 4/14/13 6:47 PM

For hems I do the same as the tutorial picture and never have issues. For shoulder seams I try to keep the twill tape out of the seam allowance. When I sew garments with sleeves: the garment seam allowance goes to the back, the sleeve seam allowance goes to the front. I make sure that the SA are super close together and press lightly if needed.

------
Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

Karla Kizer
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/14/13 7:04 PM

I have been known to snip out a little triangle at the end of the first serged seam - 1/4" x 1/4". The next line of serging holds everything together.

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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

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