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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Too tight across back

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Too tight across back
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inkyannie

inkyannie
Intermediate
Indiana USA
Member since 12/27/03
Posts: 58
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Date: 5/26/05 10:23 PM

I don't know why I can't figure this out. No matter how I try, I don't seem to understand the pattern altering process. I flat merasured and everything seemed to be ok but it isn't. I'm making a slip over with sleeves. If I pull my arms forward, it is way too tight behind the arms and in the sleeves. It seems that if I make the back wider, the seam behind the arm would be clear down my arm. It looks like it is where it should be but I can't pull my arms forward. I seem to be making another "wadder".

pittysmom

pittysmom
Beginner
Tennessee USA
Member since 7/21/04
Posts: 144
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In reply to inkyannie


Date: 5/26/05 10:33 PM

Perhaps you need a broad back alteration? I am not even close to being an expert in matters of fit, but I am starting to think that a BB alteration might benefit me also. I made KS 2694 and everything fit well but I had the same problem with the tightness in arms and sleeves when reaching.
I have the book Fit for Real People and there's a pretty simple alteration for BB in there.
Hopefully some of the Fit Gurus here will chime in with some seasoned advice, as mine is just a hunch!

Cheri

ladybegood
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ladybegood  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 5/19/03
Posts: 1181
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In reply to inkyannie


Date: 5/27/05 2:00 AM

OK, I'm no expert either, but these things come to mind... first off, look for wrinkles with your arms down. Remember that wrinkles point to the problem, and that the arm mobility will be restricted by a too tight garment OR a too loose one. If the back is too tight, you will have tension wrinkles/drag lines across your back; if it is too loose, the back will be droopy/poofy. You'd probably know just by feel if the armscye was too high, and if its too low, there will be droopiness under your arm. A fitted sleeve needs to be pretty close to the hinge points of your arm or it will restrict movement. Also, what's happening at your neck and shoulders? Are the sleeves too tight? Maybe the fabric you need to reach across your back is getting 'caught' somewhere else.

Its always best to have a picture, but if that is out of the question, try describing the garment wrinkles as accurately as possible.
-- Edited on 5/27/05 3:01 AM --

------
"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

Claire99
Claire99
Advanced Beginner
International UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 12/18/04
Posts: 47
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Date: 5/27/05 7:37 AM

I have the same problem as you. I've found it really annoying so have been putting considerable effort into trying to fix it!

I suggest you also check the width at biceps (widest part of pattern v widest part of your arm). From memory, I think the correct ease is about 2 inches. If the ease is insifficient, you can slash and stretch the pattern or you can split the pattern to create a seam on the top of the arm and alter to custom fit.

I second the other writers - check that the armhole isn't too high (or in my case, invariably too low) for you - this also creates pulling.

If you get the fit right but still want further ease, you can alter the back pattern to add a yoke, then add fabric pleats (either one at centre or 2 about 3 inches in from each armhole). The idea is, when you stretch, the pleats expand to give extra room. I'm currently test running this alteration myself so can let you know how I get on. (Found the adjustment in a pattern drafting book).

SewVeryTall
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SewVeryTall
Advanced
Nebraska USA
Member since 3/2/04
Posts: 2073
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Date: 5/27/05 8:04 AM

I see you're an intermediate, so you probably already know these, but just in case...

Using a woven fabric on a knit pattern could cause this to happen.

Setting the sleeves in backwards [switched sides] could also cause this.

------
Ardis

the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Hampshire USA
Member since 3/19/04
Posts: 2544
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Date: 5/27/05 8:36 AM

Ooh, I hate sleeves that do that!

Check that the armhole isn't too low. Sounds funny, but you'll get more room for movement with a high armhole. (I learned that here on PR!) Try pulling the shirt up at the shoulders and then moving your arms to see if that fixes the problem.

You'll also get more room with a flat-capped sleeve than with a high-capped sleeve, but it won't hang quite as nicely - you'll get some folds in the sleeve when your arms at your side.

inkyannie

inkyannie
Intermediate
Indiana USA
Member since 12/27/03
Posts: 58
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Date: 5/28/05 1:17 AM

Thank you all for the input. I have checked everything suggested and I think I used too small a pattern. The sleeve is too tight in the bicep and when I look in the mirror at the back while looking for the wrinkles and stuff, I can see every little bump and bulge across my back. I made a top with a size 18 pattern and it was too big so I was going to use a 16 this time but went with the 18 because of the flat measurements. I just pulled the other pattern out to check and it was a McCall's and this one is a Simplicity. Would the sizes run different between the brands?

Kat67
Kat67
Advanced Beginner
Member since 4/23/05
Posts: 121
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In reply to inkyannie


Date: 5/28/05 12:08 PM

Some STYLES fit very differently, more than a difference in companies.

Right now, any loose fitting bodices restrict my arms because the armhole is too low. I need to wear a close fitting garment.

From now on I will only buy patterns that give the finished measurements on the pattern pieces so I know how much ease in in the garment.

I also lay my best fitting pattern on top of a new one and see how close they are. If it's a lot bigger or the armhole is lower, I don't make it.

I hit the pattern sale today and was a bad girl by unfolding the patterns. It's funny how the same brand will mark the ease on one pattern, but not another :-0 I put a Vogue dress back because it wasn't marked.

My waist is about 2 1/2 inches bigger than the recommended size. If there is lots of ease in the waist, it doesn't matter. If not, I need to know how much I need to expand the waist.

Does your pattern have the finished measurements marked on the bust and waist??

ladybegood
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ladybegood  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 5/19/03
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In reply to inkyannie


Date: 5/28/05 8:33 PM

How does the current size fit accross your chest? This is the most important area to fit because it is the hardest to adjust. A few people have different opinions on this, but it is the general rule in choosing a size. If the front fits, and it is just the back that is too tight, then you need to adjust for a broad back. If the front is also too tight, then go up a size. You may need to do a full arm adjustment in the sleeve whichever pattern you chose since there isn't really that much difference when you go up a size. FFRP says you need at least 1 in. ease in the bicep, but ease guidelines are always an estimate. It depends a lot on wearer preference, design, and fabric.

------
"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

CarolynD
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CarolynD
Intermediate
New Jersey USA
Member since 12/31/05
Posts: 124
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Date: 9/14/13 8:54 PM

This solved my problem with a pulling back, without changing the shoulder width or the arm hole.



add more room at back




-- Edited on 9/14/13 8:56 PM --

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