Member since 3/10/13
Date: 4/20/13 7:55 AM
I read a few blogs about bra fitting and I recently discovered an interesting series of posts from Braless in Brazil. The writer, June, did a survey about bust, underbust, and waist measurements. She found that among the people who responded, waist and underbust measurements are generally close, and waists are often bigger than under busts. Here are the posts I recommend from the series:
Part 1: Data Range & Underbusts
Part 2: Sample Bias & Methodology
Part 5: Clothing Sizes
I've been thinking about how the standard fitted bodice sloper, with a straight-legged triangular dart below the bust, best fits a body type with a larger under bust than waist. If the waist is larger or the same as the under bust, curved darts will give a better fit. Perhaps an upside down version of the swayback dart shape shown here would work.
Any thoughts on fitting this area of the body?
New South Wales Australia
Member since 2/5/09
Date: 4/21/13 6:21 AM
If the waist is larger than the underbust, wouldn't it be easier to avoid waist darts alltogether and shape garments higher instead?
Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com
Member since 7/9/06
Skill: Advanced Beginner
In reply to thefunimalist
Date: 4/21/13 7:18 AM
There was a Threads article about this by Louise Cutting in Threads Mag #151 11/2010 called Waist Darts Redesigned.
Her method pretty much reflects what you said about the dart being 'upside down'. The widest part of the dart starts above the waist instead. I can say from personal experience this works, because as a petite plus with a belly, it looks and feels better to have the dart behave with 'empire' shaping so there's a little cupping in under the bust in wovens. This also works with princess seams too.
I'm not sure about this being applied to a sloper, the above is more in line of fine tuning garment fit.
Member since 5/4/11
Date: 4/21/13 8:28 AM
My shape is definatley like that and I use curved darts from and back to get a smooth fit. I think it's pretty normal for women to carry their weight lower as they age, isn't that what Fit for Real People discusses? Also,it's hard to imagine anyone who doesn't have a tummy after a few kids.
I think it's no real secret that the standard us by rtw to manufacture clothes are deeply flawed. I guess the pattern companies are the same, but of course we can alter those.
-- Edited on 4/21/13 8:29 AM --
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