SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
PatternReview.com
PatternReview.com

Forum > Fitting Woes > Underbust vs. waist measurement ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Underbust vs. waist measurement
thefunimalist
thefunimalist
Member since 3/10/13
Posts: 24
Send Message

      



Date: 4/20/13 7:55 AM

I read a few blogs about bra fitting and I recently discovered an interesting series of posts from Braless in Brazil. The writer, June, did a survey about bust, underbust, and waist measurements. She found that among the people who responded, waist and underbust measurements are generally close, and waists are often bigger than under busts. Here are the posts I recommend from the series:

Part 1: Data Range & Underbusts
Part 2: Sample Bias & Methodology
Part 5: Clothing Sizes

I've been thinking about how the standard fitted bodice sloper, with a straight-legged triangular dart below the bust, best fits a body type with a larger under bust than waist. If the waist is larger or the same as the under bust, curved darts will give a better fit. Perhaps an upside down version of the swayback dart shape shown here would work.

Any thoughts on fitting this area of the body?

Lena Merrin
star
Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 586
Send Message

      



Date: 4/21/13 6:21 AM

If the waist is larger than the underbust, wouldn't it be easier to avoid waist darts alltogether and shape garments higher instead?

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

Marilly
Marilly
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 7/9/06
Posts: 755
Send Message

      



In reply to thefunimalist <<


Date: 4/21/13 7:18 AM

There was a Threads article about this by Louise Cutting in Threads Mag #151 11/2010 called Waist Darts Redesigned.
Her method pretty much reflects what you said about the dart being 'upside down'. The widest part of the dart starts above the waist instead. I can say from personal experience this works, because as a petite plus with a belly, it looks and feels better to have the dart behave with 'empire' shaping so there's a little cupping in under the bust in wovens. This also works with princess seams too.
I'm not sure about this being applied to a sloper, the above is more in line of fine tuning garment fit.
Shel

meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 743
Send Message

      



Date: 4/21/13 8:28 AM

My shape is definatley like that and I use curved darts from and back to get a smooth fit. I think it's pretty normal for women to carry their weight lower as they age, isn't that what Fit for Real People discusses? Also,it's hard to imagine anyone who doesn't have a tummy after a few kids.

I think it's no real secret that the standard us by rtw to manufacture clothes are deeply flawed. I guess the pattern companies are the same, but of course we can alter those.
-- Edited on 4/21/13 8:29 AM --

------
Melanie

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Underbust vs. waist measurement

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Fit the Tee to a T
Fit the Tee to a T

Register

The Contemporary Couture Jacket
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

Register

BurdaStyle Magazine 02-2011-101

photo
by: tigergirl

Review
SewBaby Clutter Catchers Pattern

SewBaby Clutter Catchers Pattern

Buy Now
Islander Sewing Systems - MyStyle Greetings

Islander Sewing Systems - MyStyle Greetings

Buy Now
New Look 6150

photo
by: mars418

Review

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.