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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > sihouette pattern sweater set issue

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sihouette pattern sweater set issue
notches are wrong
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/20/13 3:33 PM

I finally, after all these years, learned that to tell the front from the back of a sleeve, in order to put it in correctly - the notches are the answer. 2 notches mark the back and one notch marks the front.

Apparently that is NOT the case with the silhouette pattern I'm using. I'm making the t-shirt part of the sweater set, but adding sleeves.

There is only a single notch on the sleeves. No double notch marking the back - unless I have defective pattern which is possible.

Since there is no help via the silhouette website - I'm asking here if anyone else has this issue and if so, do you just match up the top notch and the bottom seam and then put the sleeve in. It won't matter which sleeve goes on what side? They appear to by symmetrical.

thanks

B

B
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Date: 4/20/13 3:54 PM

Just fold them in half and see if they are identical. If so, then it shouldn't matter.

------
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marec
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 4/20/13 4:22 PM

Quote:
I finally, after all these years, learned that to tell the front from the back of a sleeve, in order to put it in correctly - the notches are the answer. 2 notches mark the back and one notch marks the front.

I recently put a sleeve in backwards even with the notches.

It happens. I will label each sleeve for the next few projects.

If your sleeve pattern is symmetrical, you can just sew those puppies on. If not, compare with a sleeve pattern you are confident of, and make your best guess.

------
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beginagain
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Date: 4/20/13 4:25 PM

My Burda patters just have a little line on the front of the sleeve. Nothing on the back.

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Pj3g
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 4/20/13 5:14 PM

The one notch--two notch on sleeve pattern pieces are on patterns that are for woven fabrics. Sleeves for wovens are drafted differently then for knits. There is a right and a left and they are 'set in' after the sleeve and body have each been sewn separately. That's why you need the one or two notches in order to be certain you're setting in the sleeve on the correct side of the garment's body.

The Silhouette pattern you are making is for knits which is flat constructed. On knit patterns you might have one notch on each side and a shoulder seam dot (which you do) or sometimes they will only have a shoulder seam notch. I've also had some knit patterns with no markings on the sleeves. For your sweater set the sleeves are the same and it doesn't matter which one goes where. The good thing about knits is they are forgiving should you not match up perfectly sewing on the sleeve. And after you 'flat' attach your sleeves, the side seams are sewn with the sleeve seam in one swoop.

And you can always call or email Peggy at Silhouette with questions. But then, it's the weekend so good thing you posted the question here. So anyway, you are good to go!

------
Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my Father who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

simplystitches
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Date: 4/20/13 6:35 PM

Peggy's knit sleeve is symmetrical so the one notch two notch doesn't apply unless you've done some sort of alteration that affects the front or back of the sleeve. I do a forward shoulder so I have to change the back notch so I can distinguish which is which.

Debbie

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 4/20/13 11:00 PM

Avatrx, sit down with a cup of tea/stiff drink/glass of ice water, and take a deep breath. You will get through this! My sleeve pattern for #195 has the notches for both the front and back, and on both the 1-4 size and the 5W-8W size. I was going to take a photo, but realized it's too late. It could be yours is a misprint, or you might have cut the notches out accidentally. They are supposed to be symmetrical as they are for a knit, which stretches and having notches on a sleeve cap isn't as critical as when working with a woven. I learned this with Surefit, which has two sleeves--one for a woven and one for a knit. The knit sleeve for Surefit is the same shape as the Silhouette pattern, which means no matter if you put it on backwards, it will still fit because it will stretch.

Notches, I've been told by Frank Lutterloh, aren't necessarily important. But we all (talking mostly about me here) have to have them! I use them to let me know if I have the back or the front, even after all these years I've been sewing. I'm not too secure in going out of my comfort zone as Frank suggested, by not putting in notches.

Also, if you ever get a sleeve pattern (for a woven) without notches, they appear in the curved portion near the underarm seam. And (this is important) the back portion of the sleeve cap curve is longer and flatter than the front on a woven sleeve pattern. That should be a clue.

------
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avatrx

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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/21/13 7:06 AM

Quote:
It could be yours is a misprint, or you might have cut the notches out accidentally. They are supposed to be symmetrical as they are for a knit


I double checked the original pattern. There are notches near the bottom, but they are both single notches. The notches on silhouette patterns are just tiny little lines that I snip inward being careful not to cut too far since the patterns only have a 3/8" s/a. I mention that because I could not have cut off the notches.

I guess I learned something new. I knew about the one notch-front - 2 notch-back but didn't know that applied only to woven.

I did have that drink yesterday. Actually a couple. Finally I'll be finishing this today. I have the sleeves pinned in and ready to sew.

I have only one more question on this 'simple' top. I used a 6W but the shoulder seam is off the edge of my shoulder. I need to make them a bit narrower on the next try. what would be the best way to do that? The sleeve circumference is fine. a smaller size might be a tad snug. Can I just draw in the shoulder seam or will that not fit the sleeve?

I never cut the pattern. I always trace it out onto something else. If I think it's a pattern I'm going to use alot - (not that THAT happens much) I'll fuse it onto interfacing. One of these days I'll actually make something I like that fits well.

Thank you so much for all your patience. I"ve already prepared the hubby - he has to take a photo of this top. I'll be eager to hear your opinion.
avatrx

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In reply to Pj3g <<


Date: 4/21/13 7:18 AM

Quote:
you can always call or email Peggy at Silhouette with questions.

I have heard that she is good at responding but I've tried that and never heard back. I don't try anymore.

thanks for the info. that helps. the sleeves do appear to be the same. I do have a shoulder seam dot and a notch on each side near the underarm. my confusion was the one notch vs 2 notches.

I'm doing the t-shirt part of the 2 piece set. I didn't look to see how the sleeves were done on the cardigan part. I added sleeves to the t-shirt.

I have to 'set them in'. since the top is already done. not a big problem. I don't mind doing that as long as I know I have the sleeves going in the correct armhole

This is the first knit pattern I've ever tried. I've resisted the temptation because knits seem so much harder to work with. I've used fleece, but never a jersey type fabric. It takes a little getting used to. I"m still not sure I'm using the correct stitch. My last attempt at this top was awful. So far this one looks a little better.

Miss Fairchild has been a HUGE help as have others here.
-- Edited on 4/21/13 7:27 AM --
avatrx

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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 4/21/13 7:26 AM

Debbie

Quote:
I do a forward shoulder so I have to change the back notch so I can distinguish which is which.


how does one know if they have forward shoulders?

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