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Message Board > Fitting Woes > FBA and Amazing Fit pattern with multi cup sizes ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA and Amazing Fit pattern with multi cup sizes
Kimbercrow
Kimbercrow
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Member since 3/30/13
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Date: 4/23/13 6:36 PM

I can not wrap my head around this one, and maybe I will just have to make several Muslins....

My high bust is 38" and full bust is 41.5. Band size in bras is 34. I am basing the size I need on my upper chest, which is size 16 (if I am remembering correctly).

Would I just make the pattern up with c or d cup, or do I need to do a FBA in addition to using the D cup.

After having 3 kids and being blessed with 3 extra inches across the bust I have no idea how to fit me any more.

Just saw that Silhouette patterns come in multi cup sizes and am in HEAVEN! Off to explore their site.

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to Kimbercrow <<


Date: 4/23/13 6:49 PM

Which Amazing Fit pattern are you planning on using? I know several have princess seams. You will probably have to make at least one muslin. I would try the D and see. The Amazing Fit patterns that I have used are pretty well drafted and easy to adjust.

Kimbercrow
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Date: 4/23/13 7:01 PM

2648 which is a princess seamed dress

http://www.simplicity.com/p-1600-misses-dresses.aspx

Marie367
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In reply to Kimbercrow <<


Date: 4/23/13 7:24 PM

Oh that is my favorite. The princess seams are easy to adjust. I made several of these last year for one pattern many looks contest. I am a B but found that size was pretty generous and I had to take in deeper seams. Go by what the pattern says to start with. Use your upper bust measurement to get your shoulder/neck right. All the seams make it easy to adjust where you need more or less.
I may make another one for summer out of two colors of Ponte knit. I lined a couple that I made for the contest and used the facing in the others. It sews up pretty fast once you get it fitted the way you want it and it is easy to add a lining if you want to do so.

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/23/13 8:25 PM

Here is a cup sizing chart:
Difference
Up to !" = A cup
Up to 2" = B cup
Up to 3" - C cup
Up to 4" = D cup

My hight bust is 40 and my full bust is 46.5.
Based on the chart I should use a D cup, however after much trial and error I found that a C cup works better for me.

As far as multi cup size patterns I use the measurements on the back of the envelope using my upper chest to select size.

If you cut out all the fronts for your pattern and compare the differences cup sizes, you would see there isn't a huge difference.
I was surprised when I saw that.

------
Ada

2 Airedales n Me
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In reply to Kimbercrow <<


Date: 4/24/13 0:29 AM

I'm in the middle of a hands-on workshop on fit in Tacoma, WA with Lynda Maynard and she is excellent with pattern fitting. She and Kenneth D. King often work together.

Lynda has a new Craftsy class on fit: Sew the Perfect Fit which will have much the same info in it that I'm getting in this $350 class.

If you want to learn to adjust patterns watching Lynda is a treat.

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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In reply to Kimbercrow <<


Date: 4/24/13 7:36 AM

It is my understanding that with the mutli-cup patterns, you're supposed to select the size according to your full bust measurement. Doing this still presents a problem as the bodice may be too big in the neckline, shoulders, etc. So for S2648, I cut a 16 in the neckline, shoulders, and armhole and skirt and an 18 in the bust area using the D cup pattern piece. If I were to make this again, I'd probably cut a 14 in the neckline and shoulders and maybe a 16 in the bust area with a smaller-than-usual FBA.

The best thing to do is commit to something and make a muslin.

JTink
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/24/13 8:39 AM

This is a tricky one and I also suggest a muslin. When I have patterns with the cup sizes included, I choose the pattern the same way I would if it didn't have the cups included, by the high bust measurement. I then Morph out to the size I need at the bust line(I cut a 10 at the neck/shoulders and morph to a 12). I have a 3 to 4 inch difference in High bust and full bust and wear a 34 DD bra. I use a D cup and it has always fit me well. If I don't use the D cup, I generally don't get that extra inch across the front that I need to button my blouse

meleliza
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Date: 4/26/13 10:08 AM

I haven't tried these yet and have been wondering the same thing. I actually have the exact same measurements as you, also curtesy of the kiddos! Knowing that 16 fits me best, and that I typically do an fba for a C or D depending on the pattern, but that simplicity typically has lots of ease, I would be inclined to start with the size 16 with the c cup. I would do a muslin and if it doesn't work, try the d cup.

------
Melanie

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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/26/13 7:35 PM

I've never hear that you select by your full bust for these patterns. I buy the same size I always do by my upper chest and then use the appropriate cup and have found it has worked out beautifully. If I remember right, there are explicit directions on the pattern sheets to help you figure out what size pattern to cut. I think you will find all your answers there.

------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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