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Forum > Fitting Woes > pants fitting question ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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pants fitting question
always on everything RTW even the tall
avatrx

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Date: 4/29/13 7:40 AM

I was out with the 'littles' as my son calls them - this weekend. walking and taking photos. my hubby or my son snapped a photo of me lifting one of the kids onto a branch. nice photo of my backside. just kidding

I had an epiphany.

EVERY SINGLE PAIR OF RTW pants that I have - as well as most that I've made - bag under the tush. I just thought about it this morning or I would have saved - and sent - the photo. But I think you all get the picture. I"m going to see if I can find one that I didn't delete.

I tried on several pairs of my jeans and they ALL bag under the tush.

I'm hoping to get my Jalie jeans pattern today so my question is this:

since I really can't tissue fit. and I don't have anyone to help me muslin fit (in the back) - what would you think the issue is?

Do I have the 'dropped tush' syndrome or flat tush problem?

I"ve always had an issue with the rise. The only pants that ever hung well were the surefit pants. but those aren't jeans and I don't have the system that shows how to make jeans.

All of my pants seem to need that 'tuck' but I"m not sure exactly how to correct for it, or better yet - what the cause is.


found one that kinda shows the issue: I hope the photos show up. I can never get that right as to how to do them.


-- Edited on 4/29/13 7:44 AM -- pants
-- Edited on 4/29/13 7:47 AM --
-- Edited on 4/29/13 7:51 AM --

StitchyMama
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Date: 4/29/13 8:24 AM

I'm no expert and I'm sure there are others who could diagnose it better, but I'm wondering if the rise is to long, causing pooling under your tush. It's hard to tell without a picture, but it could also be a flat backside and not having enough to fill out that part of the jeans. Have you tried scooping out the back curve a little? That sometimes helps remove some of the extra fabric.
-- Edited on 4/29/13 8:26 AM --

------
Brenda
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Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
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avatrx

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In reply to StitchyMama <<


Date: 4/29/13 11:00 AM

I was following your posts and found them very enlightening. The reason I don't think it's the rise is because my pants always pull down in the back.

On RTW I don't think there is any hope.

I watched the Sagers video on pants and she would probably say to take a dart from the inseam outward to the side seam where it would be -0-.

I'm 5'10+ so rise is always a problem. If pants are not a tall - there is no hope. Long helps with length - although not often since the RTW people think tall is 32". I'm approx 35". Eddie Bauer is one of the few, but those as are J.Jill pants - around $80 per pair. Out of my price range.

I never quite understood the whole scoop concept. I guess I've watched one too many Sagers videos where she say NEVER scoop. I do see if recommended her quite often, so I'm guessing it works.

I never thought I had a flat tush but I rarely see myself from the back. The hubby (of 41 years) doesn't think I have a flat backside. He doesn't sew. What does he know? He has legs that go up to his waist. No butt at all

I really admire your tenacity at sticking with the pants fitting thing. I wish I had your conviction. I might if I had a hands-on helper, but it gets very frustrating when I have to sew, rip out, and re-sew.

I kinda skipped around in your thread. maybe I should go back and read again - page by page. I find my time is limited to about 30-45 minutes at a time with all that I have going on, but sooner or later this has to click? OR - maybe I should start wearing skirts and dresses.

I'm going to compare one of my surefit pants to my jeans although they are different styles maybe I can visualize the scoop thing and see if I need to do that?

avatrx

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Date: 4/29/13 11:15 AM

maybe this photo link will work. I can't seem to get the PR photo to work:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4d4tkre0z54ko0r/jeans.jpg
-- Edited on 4/29/13 11:18 AM --
-- Edited on 4/29/13 11:31 AM --

allycovey
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Date: 4/29/13 11:15 AM

I just recently discovered my rise for my back side is way longer than the front. I worked and worked trying to get a good fit in back, one of the problems was pooling and wierd wrinkles. I discovered this by using the plastic wrap technique. So I began cutting a line leaving a hinge on the outside seam of the back and opening a full inch along the center crotch line. All the sudden my backside looks nice and all those wrinkles have gone away. Now I only have two pair of pants with htat adjustment fitting me. I need to get sewing!!!!!

avatrx

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In reply to allycovey <<


Date: 4/29/13 11:25 AM

Quote:
I just recently discovered my rise for my back side is way longer than the front.


could you give me an example? The ones I just drafted show the back at 16.75 and the front at about 13. This is where I would like to wear them. I used surefit. I've made other pants using the SFD and they seem to hang properly, but I've lost a couple of inches here and there and redrafted the pants. still no jeans, but I should know by the end of today - whether or not I drafted these correctly. It's so hard to measure myself for the crotch curve. Every time I move - the measurement changes. The elastic rolls upward, etc etc.

I had a seamstress measure me a few years ago and she shows my rise to be about 10. the back I know is about 17. something just doesn't seem right. but that wasn't the entire crotch curve, which on me - waist in front to waist in back ranges from 29 to as much as 32 when I do it by myself. I think I used 30 and followed the formula - divide then add 1" to the back and substrat 1" from the front leaving me with 17 (back) and 15 (front). they don't drag in the back, but the front is WAY too high for me, so I always have to cut them down.......

I'm not at all familiar with the plastic wrap technique. I'd be interested in how you did that? any photos?
StitchyMama
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 4/29/13 5:19 PM

I don't know if scooping would help now that I've seen your picture, but I'm not sure what would help.

------
Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

avatrx

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In reply to StitchyMama <<


Date: 4/29/13 5:22 PM



What pattern did you use for your pants. The style was really cute with the rollup leg and the sideleg patch pocket. Or did you just improvise?


Quote:
now that I've seen your picture,


I guess you see my problem? I plan to watch the Sagers pants fitting video tonight and see if I can get any clues. Sometimes she has some useful suggestions. (silhouettepatterns.com) webcast in my area CST is 8pm.

Unless she has more video issues like she has had the last couple of attemtps at putting on this webcast.
utahliz
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Date: 4/29/13 5:49 PM

Avatrx, it sounds like that formula is causing the problem. It's only a rule of thumb to divide the front and back crotch length that way, and most of us don't fit that rule of thumb. From your picture, it looks as if that would leave too little crotch length in the back to fit you. And the fact that you have to trim off the front is further proof, in my mind. If you measured the total at 29-32 inches, and you end up cutting off your front, that is length that you really needed in the back.

I'm a bit confused about the scoop-don't scoop issue myself. When I first heard about scooping, I was skeptical, since even though you add body space/depth by scooping, you're actually decreasing total circumference. But many people compensate by adding to the side seam, which makes sense to me. Pants are just hard to fit. Case in point, I would never have attributed your wrinkles to insufficient back crotch length if you hadn't mentioned your measurement and that rule of thumb.

Liz

allycovey
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Date: 4/29/13 6:30 PM

Here is the blog I found on Saran Slopers.

http://sewing-lingerie-myself.blogspot.com/2010/09/jalie-jeans-2908-muslin-part-2.htmlsaran sloper

And here is a link to my review in which I first discovered this method.

jalie jeans review

The funny thing is I made the jeans to fit the sloper and then never thought about comparing it to other pants. When I go to looking at it I realized my center back was very long and my front short. The standard measurments for crotch didn't work for me.

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