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Really small waist adjustment?
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Sanchara
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Sanchara
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British Columbia CANADA
Member since 12/7/12
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Date: 4/30/13 4:08 AM

I'm thinking I'd like to try making myself a suit for business and I'd like to try and avoid the problem I have with most of my RTW clothing - which is looking like a box with legs because even "tailored" jackets get stretched across my chest and back and hang loose around my waist. I don't think it helps that my waist measurement is 11 inches shorter than my bust measurement.

I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction? I'm still learning and have yet to try to modify a pattern.

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to Sanchara <<


Date: 4/30/13 6:40 AM

To make it the least difficult, I think I would start with a style of jacket, that had the most number of up and down, seaming in it. So maybe one with princess style seaming in the front and back of it. If you like that kind of style. Because then you would have at least 6 (and maybe even 7 if a center back seam in there too) up and down seams and all their seam allowances to just even take in at waist, or let out at bust, even if cut as the pattern was made, and not changing the open front of it at all, to just even try on and take in/let out all those seam allowances a bit more in the waist and bust area. And just the princess seaming style/shape of it to begin with, probably would bringing it in at least a bit in the waist anyways. Done that way, you might even be able to cut it, as is. But I do think you should buy it by the size that would fit your shoulders best, and so that way, actually have the arm hole seam in the right place for you, if you could do that, just because the whole thing is hanging from the shoulders anyways. That might be one thought.

marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 4/30/13 9:48 AM

You probably know this but I'd start by sewing simple, unlined jackets in inexpensive fabric until you find the style that flatters you the most.

A jean jacket pattern also has lots of seams and can come in at the waist a good bit. It may give you another styling option down the road. I think a jean jacket looks nice popped over the right dress. It can make a sundress more formal if that makes sense.

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Mary


mgmsrk1
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In reply to Sanchara <<


Date: 4/30/13 11:58 AM

Can you give a little more information about your shape? It's hard to know how you need to adjust the pattern.

I have a 14" difference in my waist to my full bust, I need a FBA on all tops. My back, ribs, waist, arms and neck are kind of "average" size to each other it is only the "girls" that are larger and need additional room. But someone could have the same waist and chest measurements as me and not need a FBA because they have a broad back therefore needing a wide back adjustment.

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
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Sanchara
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Sanchara
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British Columbia CANADA
Member since 12/7/12
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Date: 4/30/13 12:31 PM

Thanks guys.

To answer the question above: I have a relatively small ribcage with a fair amount of muscle through the back and a relatively full bust. Mesurements are probably easiest to go by - overbust is 30", bust is 35", under is 28" and waist is 24"

PetitePear
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Date: 4/30/13 1:15 PM

If you're weary about modifying a pattern, look for ones with ABCD cup sizing. Start with the D cup and see how that goes. Ideally, you'd probably even want to do a FBA even with the D cup, but it may be enough of an improvement that you don't need to. Or you can start with a D cup in a size that fits your shoulder and bust (Look at the finished garment bust measurement and make sure it has enough ease) and then taper it down to a few sizes smaller at the waist.

I know Simplicity and McCalls have some cup-size patterns. I'm sure there are others.
-- Edited on 4/30/13 1:18 PM --

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
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In reply to Sanchara <<


Date: 4/30/13 2:13 PM

You may need to do a broad back adjustment, you will have to compare to the pattern you choose it may not be needed. For the front pieces you will be most comfortable doing a FBA(even on cup patterns, I put you around a G cup) and you will likely have to blend to a smaller size on the pattern piece from the chest to the waist and maybe the hips depending on size.

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/5/13 12:34 PM

A princess seamed jacket will help you give you the close fit you're looking for. It will be easier to adjust around large curves than a darted shape. I like to fit princess seams on my body by cutting my muslin with very generous seam allowances over the bust and pinning them in place while wearing it.

Also, I find I don't always need as much of an adjustment as pure numbers would indicate, depending on the pattern. There is often a lot of wearing and design ease built into big4 patterns. I look at the finished garment measurements to get an idea of how much I may want to add to the bust. I find that you want very little ease over a large bust. Otherwise, you tend to look a little too matronly. If you're working with princess seams, you can skip the math part of the fba, which is nice.

------
Melanie

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/5/13 12:52 PM

Here is a blazer with cup sizes and princess seams. It only goes up to a C cup. However, if you look at the measurements under size 6, which is right size for you, the finished full bust for the C cup is 36". So, you might be able to use the C cup version without much additional fitting.

You might need to grade the waist out to a size 8, but you might not. Also, you didn't give your hip, but keep in mind that your hip measurement will be important in a jacket too. For a good, close fit, you really should make a muslin first. If you do the work, you'll be able to use it over and over with different fabrics, different lapels, different pocket options.

------
Melanie

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sanchara <<
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Date: 5/5/13 1:19 PM

I'm not sure you need the small waist adjustment, but instead that you need the proper size pattern (maybe an 8) based on upper bust measure and waist, and then an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) or a full upper back adjustment to that pattern..

By using the upper bust measurement and waist, you'll get a pattern that fits properly around the neck and shoulders *and* waist, then you can add to the bust or back (or both).

------
iPad's auto-correct is my enema.

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