Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Really small waist adjustment? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Really small waist adjustment?
how to not look like a brick house
Sanchara
Sanchara
Beginner
BC CANADA
Member since 12/7/12
Posts: 7
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/30/13 4:08 AM

I'm thinking I'd like to try making myself a suit for business and I'd like to try and avoid the problem I have with most of my RTW clothing - which is looking like a box with legs because even "tailored" jackets get stretched across my chest and back and hang loose around my waist. I don't think it helps that my waist measurement is 11 inches shorter than my bust measurement.

I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction? I'm still learning and have yet to try to modify a pattern.

beauturbo
beauturbo
Advanced
CA USA
Member since 5/2/09
Posts: 2839
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sanchara <<


Date: 4/30/13 6:40 AM

To make it the least difficult, I think I would start with a style of jacket, that had the most number of up and down, seaming in it. So maybe one with princess style seaming in the front and back of it. If you like that kind of style. Because then you would have at least 6 (and maybe even 7 if a center back seam in there too) up and down seams and all their seam allowances to just even take in at waist, or let out at bust, even if cut as the pattern was made, and not changing the open front of it at all, to just even try on and take in/let out all those seam allowances a bit more in the waist and bust area. And just the princess seaming style/shape of it to begin with, probably would bringing it in at least a bit in the waist anyways. Done that way, you might even be able to cut it, as is. But I do think you should buy it by the size that would fit your shoulders best, and so that way, actually have the arm hole seam in the right place for you, if you could do that, just because the whole thing is hanging from the shoulders anyways. That might be one thought.

marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
GA USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 2588
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/30/13 9:48 AM

You probably know this but I'd start by sewing simple, unlined jackets in inexpensive fabric until you find the style that flatters you the most.

A jean jacket pattern also has lots of seams and can come in at the waist a good bit. It may give you another styling option down the road. I think a jean jacket looks nice popped over the right dress. It can make a sundress more formal if that makes sense.

------
Mary


mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
Intermediate
NY
Member since 12/16/12
Posts: 178
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sanchara <<


Date: 4/30/13 11:58 AM

Can you give a little more information about your shape? It's hard to know how you need to adjust the pattern.

I have a 14" difference in my waist to my full bust, I need a FBA on all tops. My back, ribs, waist, arms and neck are kind of "average" size to each other it is only the "girls" that are larger and need additional room. But someone could have the same waist and chest measurements as me and not need a FBA because they have a broad back therefore needing a wide back adjustment.

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

Sanchara
Sanchara
Beginner
BC CANADA
Member since 12/7/12
Posts: 7
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/30/13 12:31 PM

Thanks guys.

To answer the question above: I have a relatively small ribcage with a fair amount of muscle through the back and a relatively full bust. Mesurements are probably easiest to go by - overbust is 30", bust is 35", under is 28" and waist is 24"

PetitePear
PetitePear
Advanced Beginner
Member since 6/10/10
Posts: 255
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/30/13 1:15 PM

If you're weary about modifying a pattern, look for ones with ABCD cup sizing. Start with the D cup and see how that goes. Ideally, you'd probably even want to do a FBA even with the D cup, but it may be enough of an improvement that you don't need to. Or you can start with a D cup in a size that fits your shoulder and bust (Look at the finished garment bust measurement and make sure it has enough ease) and then taper it down to a few sizes smaller at the waist.

I know Simplicity and McCalls have some cup-size patterns. I'm sure there are others.
-- Edited on 4/30/13 1:18 PM --

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
Intermediate
NY
Member since 12/16/12
Posts: 178
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sanchara <<


Date: 4/30/13 2:13 PM

You may need to do a broad back adjustment, you will have to compare to the pattern you choose it may not be needed. For the front pieces you will be most comfortable doing a FBA(even on cup patterns, I put you around a G cup) and you will likely have to blend to a smaller size on the pattern piece from the chest to the waist and maybe the hips depending on size.

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 654
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/5/13 12:34 PM

A princess seamed jacket will help you give you the close fit you're looking for. It will be easier to adjust around large curves than a darted shape. I like to fit princess seams on my body by cutting my muslin with very generous seam allowances over the bust and pinning them in place while wearing it.

Also, I find I don't always need as much of an adjustment as pure numbers would indicate, depending on the pattern. There is often a lot of wearing and design ease built into big4 patterns. I look at the finished garment measurements to get an idea of how much I may want to add to the bust. I find that you want very little ease over a large bust. Otherwise, you tend to look a little too matronly. If you're working with princess seams, you can skip the math part of the fba, which is nice.

------
Melanie

meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 654
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/5/13 12:52 PM

Here is a blazer with cup sizes and princess seams. It only goes up to a C cup. However, if you look at the measurements under size 6, which is right size for you, the finished full bust for the C cup is 36". So, you might be able to use the C cup version without much additional fitting.

You might need to grade the waist out to a size 8, but you might not. Also, you didn't give your hip, but keep in mind that your hip measurement will be important in a jacket too. For a good, close fit, you really should make a muslin first. If you do the work, you'll be able to use it over and over with different fabrics, different lapels, different pocket options.

------
Melanie

Doris W. in TN
star
Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
Intermediate
TN USA
Member since 2/9/04
Posts: 7473
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sanchara <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/5/13 1:19 PM

I'm not sure you need the small waist adjustment, but instead that you need the proper size pattern (maybe an 8) based on upper bust measure and waist, and then an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) or a full upper back adjustment to that pattern..

By using the upper bust measurement and waist, you'll get a pattern that fits properly around the neck and shoulders *and* waist, then you can add to the bust or back (or both).

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Really small waist adjustment?

Merchants on PR
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Understanding Sheer Fabrics
Fee: $39.99
(Regular $39.99)
Understanding Sheer Fabrics

Online Sewing Classes
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Fee: $34.00
(Regular $49.00)
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

Vogue Patterns 1313
photo
Review by Kay Y on 6/5/07
Read Review

Vogue 8633 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
Vogue 8633 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $25.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Burda 9462 Pattern
Burda 9462 Pattern

Details
Price: $8.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Children's Corner 48
photo
Review by 3girlsmama on 2/24/10
Read Review

MariaDenmark Audrey Dress Digital Pattern ( Sized For B-Cup Bust )
MariaDenmark Audrey Dress Digital Pattern ( Sized For B-Cup Bust )

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver S Birthday Party Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 6m-3T )
Oliver   S Birthday Party Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 6m-3T )

Details
Price: $13.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Paradiso Designs Carry-All Shoulder Bag Pattern
Paradiso Designs Carry-All Shoulder Bag Pattern

Details
Price: $14.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Jennifer Stern The Perfectly Fitted Shirt by the Cup-Full Pattern ( Size 6-14(Cup A-DD) )
Jennifer Stern The Perfectly Fitted Shirt by the Cup-Full Pattern ( Size 6-14(Cup A-DD) )

Details
Price: $20.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN