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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Adding concealed bra cups ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Adding concealed bra cups
prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
Intermediate
Ohio USA
Member since 3/6/12
Posts: 59
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Date: 5/1/13 5:49 PM

I'm still in the muslin phase for Vogue 9668 view C and I'm wanting to add bra cups but am not quite sure how. I want to add them BETWEEN the fashion fabric (which will be underlined) and the lining so that they're completely concealed. I'm adding them for some additional shaping in the bustline and to give a modesty layer (since I'm always freezing!). Basically the fashion fabric bodice needs to be slightly larger than the lining to accommodate the thin foam cups. I've already converted the bust dart to a princess seam but am not sure the best/correct alteration for the fashion fabric so that the bodice isn't distorted. HELP!

happytobehere
happytobehere
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Member since 7/31/10
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Date: 5/2/13 8:09 AM

I hope this will help.
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/04/19/adding-bra-cups-to-a-halter-top-or-dress/

Pamela R
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Pamela R  Friend of PR
Expert/Couture
Ontario CANADA
Member since 6/22/07
Posts: 616
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In reply to prostheticsgirl <<


Date: 5/2/13 9:44 AM

At the bridal shoppe, that I have worked at, we put the foam cups in and make sure that they are in the best position, then sew them in by stitching herringbone stitches through the cups and lining.

prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
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Ohio USA
Member since 3/6/12
Posts: 59
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Date: 5/2/13 6:56 PM

Yes my wedding dress had the cups just sewn in like you mentioned because the dress was already constructed, but since I'm sewing this one myself I want a more elegant way of incorporating them. I'm self lining the bodice in silk which will be much nicer than the nasty foam against my skin. What I want to know is how to properly compensate for the slight difference since it's a very closely fit bodice. I don't want to distort the fashion fabric

Pamela R
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Pamela R  Friend of PR
Expert/Couture
Ontario CANADA
Member since 6/22/07
Posts: 616
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In reply to prostheticsgirl <<


Date: 5/4/13 3:39 PM

I do slip the cups inside the lining, but you could put it together and then do a final shaping after the cups are in, or put in another lining/interlining that is just to attach the cups to.
Pam

prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
Intermediate
Ohio USA
Member since 3/6/12
Posts: 59
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Date: 5/10/13 12:43 PM

The problem is that the construction technique requires the cup size be set early. The upper bodice is constructed with the lining, and then attached to the midriff. So any changes require ripping the whole darn thing apart. I'm afraid constructing it in a different order would compromise the edges of the neckline and the transitin into the midriff. I completed a 3rd muslin (which is something I NEVER do) but decided to make a version with some cheaper fabric before cutting my silk. The silk wasn't terribly expensive, but everyone knows I'm sewing my dress, so it must be perfect!

barbarahf
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barbarahf  Friend of PR
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Ohio USA
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Date: 5/20/13 10:10 AM

Kenneth King's CD "Build a Bustier" addresses this issue. I don't have access to mine right now, but when I get home I will post the adjustment. The CD is awesome, just like everything KK, but you need to have read and worked through his "Moulange" CD to do the bustier. But, as I mentioned, the adjustment for inner layer vs. outer layers is there. I'm setting myself a reminder right now.

------
Barbara
It's all about the costumes!

prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
Intermediate
Ohio USA
Member since 3/6/12
Posts: 59
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Date: 7/24/13 7:51 PM

Eeek, wedding is in 2 1/2 weeks and I haven't even cut out the dress! I started a new job, which has been crazy busy, and am behind on my sewing and sewing blogging. Barbarahf, wondering if you had any luck locating that book?

andye
andye  Friend of PR
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Virginia USA
Member since 5/9/09
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Date: 7/24/13 8:44 PM

I have this book at hand, but unfortunately, I don't know exactly what to look for.

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
Intermediate
Ohio USA
Member since 3/6/12
Posts: 59
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Date: 7/30/13 4:54 PM

Seriously, no help ladies? I have to seriously work on this dress (as in cut out all layers, baste underlining to fashion fabric, and begin assembly) this weekend because the wedding is NEXT SATURDAY!!! Oh and I have to attend the rehearsal next Friday so that won't be much of a sewing night... ugh oh

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