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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Bust darts too high?? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Bust darts too high??
The Sorbetto top
candi7
candi7
Member since 3/1/13
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Date: 5/2/13 4:49 PM

Hi all!
I worked on a muslin today for the Sorbetoo top; gotta love a rainy day off workAccording to my bust measurement, I made a size zero but widened the arm holes a bit based on reviews I read here..result is a great fit! Really, so great that I regretted making the muslin until I noticed the bust darts--yikes, aren't they supposed to be level with the bust point?? Well mine are at least an inch, maybe an inch and half higher than my bust point and they seem to go too much in. Don't know what I am supposed to do to fix this but keep the good fit? I am a very beginner when it comes to garment sewing, in fact, these are the first darts I ever sewed, so really not sure how to troubleshoot. The book I have have you move the dart on the pattern, but is this going to affect the rest of the fit? I hope I am making sense here. To my odd thinking brain, I feel that I should just lengthen the part above the bust-thus pulling everything lower including the bust darts and the neckline which I would like better I think. Is this a practical option? And if so how do I go about doing that?

Thank you all for the help.

DonnaH
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DonnaH
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Date: 5/2/13 5:00 PM

If you read the reviews for the Sorbetto, many of them mention that the darts are too long. I think I shortened mine by an inch. I didn't need to lower them - but my torso is very short.

Adding to the portion above the darts would also help lengthen the top - which is another complaint many of the reviewers had. This is a very simple top, so doing it this way will work, but...

1. Do it above the dart but below the neckline (unless you want a deeper neckline) and below the armscye. Assuming the armscye was correct for you.

2. Don't forget to lengthen the back an equal amount, unless you want the top to be shorter in back!

Or you could make this version which has no darts!
-- Edited on 5/2/13 5:01 PM --

candi7
candi7
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Date: 5/2/13 5:55 PM

Donna,thank you for the help. Bookmarked the other top! And thanks for the reminder to do the back too, it would have been like me to lengthen the front and forget th back lol. Ok, I am going to do that and make another muslin..sigh. So anxious to get a real top made but hopefully the fit will be right that I can use the modified pattern to make many tops (says trying to convince herself that making trials is the way to go) hehe.

EleanorSews
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EleanorSews  Friend of PR
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In reply to candi7 <<
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Date: 5/2/13 6:41 PM

checkout this tutorial for lowering a bust dart without compromising your pattern.

http://blog.megannielsen.com/2012/09/how-to-alter-bust-dart-height/

Sorry it's not a link but I'm not doing well with Internet Explorer 7...

I use something similar to raise the point dart for my DD.




------
"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

candi7
candi7
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Date: 5/2/13 8:35 PM

Eleanor, thank you, a great tutorial and I can actually understand it!

candi7
candi7
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Date: 5/3/13 6:30 PM

So I managed to fix my dart issue and I am very happy with the front fit, however, the back seems kind of baggy-I realize it is not a fitted top but even for a boxy top, the back pulls out too much for my liking. My questions are one: could this be because the muslin is less drapey than the shirting and voile fabric I will be using or is this a problem that I need correcting? I tried taking in the sides in some more and that definitely helped but the shoulder/upper back area is still forming a tent like shape lol. So I am asking you experts, what are my options? And thanks in advance:)

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to candi7 <<


Date: 5/4/13 6:07 PM

Keep it simple. You say that it fits well except for the darts. Just lower them. On your muslin undo the side seam and repin them so that they point to the bust apex. On your pattern you draw a box around the dart and lower it to the amount you've lowered your dart point on the muslin. If the dart is too long for you just back it off, sewing it shorter.

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Irina Grace
Irina Grace
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In reply to candi7 <<


Date: 5/4/13 11:36 PM

Quote: candi7
So I managed to fix my dart issue and I am very happy with the front fit, however, the back seems kind of baggy-I realize it is not a fitted top but even for a boxy top, the back pulls out too much for my liking. My questions are one: could this be because the muslin is less drapey than the shirting and voile fabric I will be using or is this a problem that I need correcting? I tried taking in the sides in some more and that definitely helped but the shoulder/upper back area is still forming a tent like shape lol. So I am asking you experts, what are my options? And thanks in advance:)

From my experience if it does not look right on a muslin - it will not look right in a garment.Too wide back, tightness of a top in hip area on a back can cause a "tent". Also wrong neck -to- waist measurement in a pattern (lager then you need). And also if a pattern-maker did not take care of a center back line while constructing a pattern....

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Irina Grace
English is my Second Language

candi7
candi7
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In reply to Irina Grace <<


Date: 5/5/13 0:10 AM

Quote: Irina Grace
[quote]

Thank you for the reply. This is a pattern that has 60 plus positive reviews so I am thiking it is a me problem not the pattern. I tried my muslin again today in front of my husband and he thought part of the problem was that the shoulders were not sitting right so a Google search (gotta love the Internet) revelaed that I have what sewing experts call rounded shoulders (who knew?), luckily for me the adjustment for that is quite easy so I did them and tried the muslin on again- the neck shoulder area is defintely better but the mid back is still tenting. Your idea of tighteness at the hip may be the problem, as that came across my mind- I will try one more muslin with the hip a size higher and with the dart and round shoulder alternation and if it is still off, I am calling it quits with this pattern lol. Funny thing is, or maybe sad thing don't know, is that I rarely have any problems fitting clothes at stores, I rarely find clothes that I like but mostly they fit, so I am really not sure why I am having all these problems, building character I suppose :)
-- Edited on 5/5/13 0:10 AM --
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