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Forum > Fitting Woes > Help with fitting dress ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help with fitting dress
Needing several sizes
MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
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Date: 5/2/13 10:29 PM

I've avoided making dresses (I've made a knit and another with a knit bodice and woven skirt) because I have proportions that aren't all happy like with sewing patterns.

I cut a bodice muslin for M6760.

-I need a 12 in the shoulders (which still leaves a little too much fabric - but I think I can trim about 1/4" off each back piece like I did with NL6130).

-I need a 14 through the bust.

-I need a 16 waist.

I cut a straight 12 with a 16 waist and it was too tight through the bust (there's a 2" difference in finished bust size which is probably a little more than I need...). I had a big problem fitting the smaller bodice to the bigger waist.

How do I accomplish this?

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

B

B
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Minnesota USA
Member since 12/5/03
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Date: 5/3/13 1:39 AM

Lovely dress!
If you have multiple sizes on one pattern piece, you could use different sizes as needed and blend one size line to another in a smooth curve. A curved ruler, such as Styling Design Ruler, could be very helpful in getting a smooth change to the different sizes.

Do you also need a FBA (full bust adjustment)? There are links somewhere for doing this.

None of this is easy for many of us. Do you trace the pattern so you can make adjustments and come back to the original if you need to start over? Also, certain pattern brands are more suitable to certain figure types.

------
Janome serger 634D, Brother PC6000, Singer 500A, Kenmore Mini-Ultra, vintage Bernina 600, White Rotary treadle, New Homestead A VS treadle

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/3/13 2:38 AM

Like B says, blending between sizes is a great idea but you have to match it to where your body needs more or less room. Since the waist/midriff piece on this particular dress is the most fitted portion, I would start there - tissue fit or make a muslin of just those pieces, and figure out what size(s) you need to fit your ribcage. Then you can grade down for the bodice piece and up for the skirt.

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MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/3/13 7:11 AM

I did make a muslin of the bodice and midriff. The midriff piece is the biggest size needed. I don't have French/curved rule but I'll pick one up. I love the fabric I chose and want this to be perfect.

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 3277
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In reply to B <<


Date: 5/3/13 8:20 AM

In cases of fitted garments, I trace :)

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/3/13 2:03 PM

http://www.wawak.com/

Wawak is a great place to pick up things like rulers and pins(cheaper then most B&M stores). Along with the French curve they have a ruler(I think the designers ruler) that mixes curves like hip and arm, it's about $11. It is great for blending sizes since it has a few different curves and I find that you can kind of match them to how the pattern lays to help make my lines smooth.

Are you sure you need a size 16 and not a FBA for the chest?

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
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MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
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In reply to mgmsrk1 <<


Date: 5/3/13 3:53 PM

Quote: mgmsrk1
http://www.wawak.com/



Wawak is a great place to pick up things like rulers and pins(cheaper then most B&M stores). Along with the French curve they have a ruler(I think the designers ruler) that mixes curves like hip and arm, it's about $11. It is great for blending sizes since it has a few different curves and I find that you can kind of match them to how the pattern lays to help make my lines smooth.



Are you sure you need a size 16 and not a FBA for the chest?

Thanks for the link!

It's not the chest I need a bigger size for...I could probably cut a 12 top and do an FBA but I'm going to cut a 14 and see how it goes.

My neckline area is apparently small. Several tops I cut early on were huge at the neck and I've cut smaller necklines in subsequent tops that fit much better.

The 12 fits through the neck/shoulders. But is tight across the bust.

The 16 waist fits JUST right, with 5/8" seam allowances.

My measurements are: 15 3/4" neck, 37.5" upper bust, 38.5" full bust, 34" under bust, 34.5" waist, 43" hip. So, not a lot of differences in those dimensions...

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

DonnaH
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DonnaH
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Texas USA
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Posts: 1313
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 5/3/13 4:29 PM

You may want to try a narrow shoulder adjustment. So use the 12, but adjust the width at the top.

This one is pretty good. The key is to not change the armscye.

Or because of the neck, do a slash/overlap there? That way you have the width at the bust, but it decreases at the neck/shoulder. If this makes any sense.

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 3277
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In reply to DonnaH <<


Date: 5/3/13 6:16 PM

Ah. Didn't think of that one! Thanks

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 3277
Send Message

      



Date: 5/3/13 6:18 PM

But my bigger issue (pun!) is trying to fit the smaller bodice to the larger midriff.

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

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