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Forum > Fitting Woes > How much scooping is too much scooping ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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How much scooping is too much scooping
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 5/3/13 9:57 AM

I'm working on another pair of casual slacks. I'm still having problems with that cursed 2 inch area at the bottom of my butt crack. By the time I scoop enough to make it feel a bit better, it looks awful. Also, now the entire crotch might as well be hanging to my knees. It was already a bit low. Kicker is, the butt is still doing the grabby thing, but after all the scooping, the entire pair of pants have gotten horribly loose and baggy everywhere else...especially in the waist.

On the pattern, I have already taken almost 3/4 inch out, by folding across the lengthening/shortening line(should I take more?). Also took about 5/8 inches off the top of the pattern. This is a Palmer/Pletsch and allows for 1 inch seams. I've taken in the entire inch and still having problems with this butt thing. I'm at a loss. What can I do before ruining another piece of fabric? (already made a muslin and thought I was good to go). This area at my lower but is my fight.

Do I take up more in the body.

A side note: This pattern calls for an invisible zipper to be put in the back or front and no real waistband. I opted to make a front fly and waistband.

Michelle T

Michelle T
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Date: 5/3/13 11:13 AM

I cannot visualize what you mean, but several years ago I took a workshop with Trudy Jansen.

For pant fitting she suggested opening the back seam and seeing what the fabric wants to do. You really need a good fit partner for this or a couple mirrors and a camera set at bum level with a timer.

If when unsewn the seams opens up, then you need more fabric. If it overlaps you need less. For more she would have the fit partner (you have to be good friends) slip a piece of pattern paper into the opening, pin it in place (safety pins), mark the amount needed. When you take the pants off you cut the extra piece down the middle and add to each side of the pattern.

If less fabric is needed, pin the overlap and draw a new centre back seam. You will remove that from your pattern.

Sometimes it is not the seat that is causing the problem, but the side seam and hip fluff. You can do the same thing, open the side seam where it is pulling or has too much fabric and try the same techniques.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

marymary86
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Date: 5/3/13 11:43 AM

I think it might be helpful if you said what pattern you are using.

For me, half the battle is won by using Burda for pants. I have a feeling StyleArc would work well for me too.

------
Mary


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Date: 5/3/13 12:52 PM

Deleted
-- Edited on 5/3/13 12:53 PM --

JTink
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Date: 5/3/13 1:35 PM

I'm sorry, I forgot to give the pattern number It's McCall 6211.

Here's a picture of the trouble spot. This pair of pants was made from a different pattern, but I have the same problem with each and every one I do...except Jeans. I don't know if the problem is because the bottom of my butt is shaped like a heart(both cheeks are lower than the "center") or I'm just not doing something right. I've done every adjustment out there and can't find the combination for this ever existing problem.

In the picture, I placed a piece of masking tape above and below the problem area. And I'm standing somewhat bent forward so you an see the tape. If I were standing up straight, there would be a nasty little wedgie

AdaH
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Date: 5/3/13 1:59 PM

when looking at the back of your pants i want to take sissors and make a slice from cb to the side seam about 1" below the top piece of tape, letting out the crotch seam. i think the wedgie is telling you there needs to be more crotch length.

------
Ada

JTink
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Date: 5/3/13 4:47 PM

Ada, funny you should mention that. Some time ago, I did make that adjustment on a pair of slacks. It made the crotch droopy. I might try it again. I had to take the tuck out of both front and back, because the waist was to high and the crotch was hanging low, but I had that funky thing happening before I ever did that.

Maybe you can give me some insight to this: Since I get a good fit with my jeans, I pinned together the jeans pattern, crotch point to crotch point and did the same with the slacks pattern. I then laid the jeans pattern on top of the slacks pattern...I noticed that the crotch curves angle down more on the jeans. I don't want the same snugness in the slacks as I have in the jeans, but was wondering if this could be part of the problem. I do have a Burda pattern that has that slant. If I remember correctly, the Burda fit a little better. I guess it wasn't totally OK because I stopped using it for some reason. Do you think the angle of the front and back crotch points could be a consideration?

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 5/3/13 5:01 PM

Too tight in the butt, make the seam deeper, tapering out before the waist.

Crotch too long, take in the inseam at the crotch tapering out along the thigh.

I do a long basting stitch before doing any permanent stitching or cutting.

Suggestions for this and other issues here @ Coletterie.


-- Edited on 5/3/13 5:05 PM --

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

JTink
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Date: 5/3/13 6:42 PM

Thanks PattiAnn...They look tight because I was in a weird bent postion Believe it or not when I stand up they are real baggy. I've toss the pair out I've been working on for 3 days. I got this green pair out of the closet to continue the journey. Getting back to the "tight of it all". I do notice that as I scoop, the pants get tighter across the "apple" of my butt. I let out the side seams to compensate and look like I'm wearing jodhpurs.

Hopfully taking a larger fold at the lengthening/shortening line, will bring the crotch up some. I did take some in at the inseam. That caused the wedgie to pucker and draw even tighter. I also do basting stitches before making the permanent stitch. The pair I've been working on were almost entirely basted.

I'm not sure what you mean by Taking the seam in deeper and tapering out before the waist. If they look tight, wouldn't I be letting the seam out?

I'm going to go check the link you posted. See if there's something I'm missing.

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Date: 5/4/13 7:08 AM

Try a HORIZONTAL dart from mid center back seam tapering to nothing at the side seam. It won't fix this pant because its already cut, but will work for future pants. Should take out baggy seat right under the booty.

------
Dawn T.

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