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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > I apologize up front if these questions have been asked all ready,

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I apologize up front if these questions have been asked all ready,
Is it possible to alter commrecial patterns when you are a g cup?
Dana Cetz
Dana Cetz  Friend of PR
Member since 12/14/12
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Date: 5/4/13 6:47 PM

I have seen some videos of FBA and they make it appear that its only possible for up to 2 inches.

The reason I am drafting my own bodice and tunic slopers is so that I can add in the extra bust cup inches in the dart but will too wide of an dart deform the sloper?

I have to do this because it seems like the only way to eventually draft my bras. Also to actually have an empire waist that fits me under my breast for once and to actually own a button up shirt that won't gap at the bust.

loti
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loti  Friend of PR
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In reply to Dana Cetz <<
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Date: 5/4/13 8:01 PM

Darts that are too deep can distort the pattern, to avoid that it's best to divide the dart into 2 smaller darts.

------
"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.
Coco Chanel

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misschris
misschris
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In reply to Dana Cetz <<
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Date: 5/4/13 8:24 PM

I'm bigger than a g cup and do an FBA on everything I make. And, yes, its much bigger than 2 inches! Depending on the style of the garment, I may leave one large dart, but I usually split it into 2 and rotate one elsewhere. I also tend to choose patterns that already have design features that make it easier - gathers or tucks or multiple darts. Shoulder princess seams work for me too.

Its also important to remember that your cup size is only a starting point for alterations - your cup size is relative to your bra band size which is measured below the bust. Its usually easier to adjust a pattern using your upper bust/shoulder size which may have no relation to your bra size.

------
chris

Melbourne

goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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In reply to Dana Cetz <<


Date: 5/4/13 9:03 PM

I would read through these blog posts, if you haven't already done so:
Sharon/Shams resources

And especially look at this one:
Uber-Busty
-- Edited on 5/4/13 9:04 PM --

------
blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Kwaaked
Kwaaked
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Date: 5/4/13 10:57 PM

And a reminder, over a D cup, the bra you choose can be as many as 3 cup size difference between brands. I wear anywhere from a 38 DD to a 38 H due to brand sizes.

Always measure underbust and full bust for that measurement, but even then I find that I still have to fiddle sometimes.

NVK
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NVK  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/5/13 8:19 AM

I always make a FBA on all my garments. I have a JJ cup and add 5 to 6 inches to the pattern bust line. I use the method described in Full Busted DVD

DolphinDancer30

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Date: 5/13/13 2:50 PM

Definitely invest in the Palmer Pletsch Full Busted DVD. I recommend the Y alteration because it causes less distortion to the armscye and puts more fabric where you need it.

misschris
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In reply to DolphinDancer30 <<
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Date: 5/13/13 5:14 PM

The Y alteration doesn't always work for those who have a shallow chest. You can have large breasts that are full on the bottom. Adding extra fabric across the upper bust with the Y alteration can cause horizontal wrinkles and/or gapping.

The shape and placement of breasts can have an impact on the type of alterations you need. Wideset, shallow breasts are different than narrow breasts with forward projection. They may both need extra fabric, but in different places.

------
chris

Melbourne

wendyrb
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In reply to Dana Cetz <<
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Date: 5/13/13 6:48 PM

I'm with misschris

Quote:
The shape and placement of breasts can have an impact on the type of alterations you need. Wideset, shallow breasts are different than narrow breasts with forward projection. They may both need extra fabric, but in different places.

This is why I never sew a dart in before fitting the bodice. Fitting as I sew, I can drape the dart to sculpt the shape where I most need it. This way, I move the dart and fine tune the curve of the dart legs so the fabric molds in the most flattering way.

I've started looking at Jen Stern's Fit the T video here. For the fuller busted, she suggests doing a FBA for a D and then doing a second one on that first pass to get more control of the shaping. Haven't tried that yet, but seems worth a go. Jen describes herself as full busted and is working on a woven shirt pattern to include a fit for the FBA crowd.

I went to My Intimacy, a bra shop with great fitters in NYC. I was wearing the wrong size and now that I have the correct fit, my clothes fit better too. Much more comfortable in a 34 G. They don't have a store in San Francisco, but do have them around the country. Maybe one near you?

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
-- Edited on 5/13/13 6:51 PM --

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Peddles
Peddles
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FL
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Date: 6/8/13 9:25 AM

My petite 88 yr old mother just recently received a temporary ostomy. Where can I find simple patterns with modifications for devices? I would like to sew a few easy items for her to wear. I cannot find patterns through PR. Thank-you

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Singer 127(Alva), 201(Nora), 404, 500a(Elton); Kenmore 1802(Ken) & 1914(Ele); Bernina 830R (Pat) and my new arrival Elna Pro4 DE (Bette Davis)

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