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jacket sleeve fitting problem
what is my fitting problem?
olydix
olydix
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 2/16/05
Posts: 14
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Date: 5/5/13 3:43 PM

I have a fitting problem with jacket sleeves. This problem is consistent across several different jacket patterns from different pattern companies. I cannot figure out what adjustment is needed. Here are photos from a recent jacket:

sleeve 1

sleeve 2

The sleeves do not hang smooth. I have made no significant pattern adjustments except to grade the sleeve down a few sizes as my arms are not proportionately heavy.

This fitting problem is present in all jacket patterns I have been working with. I have tried rehanging the sleeve (moving the shoulder point backward) with only limited success.

I do not seem to have this problem with one part blouse sleeves.

Any suggestions on how to address this?

thanks

olydix
olydix
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 2/16/05
Posts: 14
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In reply to olydix <<


Date: 5/5/13 3:54 PM

here are additional photos of the pattern pieces:

sleeve pattern 1

sleeve pattern 2

sleeve pattern 3

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to olydix <<
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Date: 5/5/13 6:24 PM

You need to undo the top of the sleeve cap down to the match points. Rotate the sleeve cap forward. If I am reading your sleeve correctly you have a forward shoulder. Move it forward and back until you get it to hang correctly. I would make up your sleeves in muslin and fit those so that you can easily mark them on the outside. I have a very forward.shoulder and had sleeves fit by Kenneth King. We cut a muslin bodice and sleeve with 1" sas in both sleeve cap and armscye, sewed for 3" on either side o the underarm seam. The seamlines were marked on the outside. He folded the sleeve cap back and adjusted so that the sleeves hang straight. I also needed more room in the front sleeve cap and a flatter back cap. Move the match point on the sleeve cap and adjust the ease evenly. Mark match points front and back across the seam. Mark the seam lines by using pencil to make marks across the sleeve and bodice. This is why you really need to do this in a muslin.
If the marks were on both the front and back of the sleeve I'd say that you needed more cap height.
-- Edited on 5/5/13 6:25 PM --

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Sunshine12242
Sunshine12242
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In reply to olydix <<


Date: 5/5/13 7:51 PM

I have exactly the same problem on a RTW blazer that I am trying to shorten the shoulder on. I have taken the sleeve partially off and and on trying to put it back, it became twisted just as yours is. I have tried a number of solutions from books and fellow PR members, and I must be doing something wrong, as they are not working. I took it to an alteration person before I started working on it, and was told that the "shoulders look good, don't bother with them". But, they don't look good to me and being short and pear shaped I don't need anything to make me look any wider.

Good luck and hope we both have success.

Janine S
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Janine S
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AUSTRALIA
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In reply to olydix <<


Date: 5/5/13 9:03 PM

It also looks to me as though you need a bit more fabric in the sleeve head as well as rotating the sleeve as (as Nancy K has already suggested)

Janine

DUH! just re-read Nancy's suggestion and she has already noted this - "cap height" they were the wordsI was after!
-- Edited on 5/5/13 9:05 PM --

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Janine (in Sydney)

olydix
olydix
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Washington USA
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Posts: 14
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Subject: jacket sleeve fitting problem - could I have caused my own problem? Date: 5/5/13 9:15 PM

After thinking on this and researching my reference books on pattern drafting and fitting, I am beginning to wonder if I caused my own problem by grading the sleeve down too many sizes? Look at this photo of the sleeve drape when on a hanger:

jacket on hanger 1

jacket on hanger 2

I am short with short and proportionately thin arms, and don't like any fullness in the upper arm. If the sleeve has the same problem when it is not on the body then I think it is not a fitting problem but an engineering problem. I grade down 4 sizes sometimes on the sleeves and perhaps that is causing the cap to be too small.

Any thoughts?

thanks

Janine S
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Janine S
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In reply to olydix <<


Date: 5/5/13 9:48 PM

sorry, but I'm unable to see these new pics.

Janine

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Janine (in Sydney)

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Washington USA
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Date: 5/5/13 9:56 PM

Can't see the last picture.

In the first photos -- are you sure you put the sleeves in the correct side? They look backwards to me.

olydix
olydix
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Washington USA
Member since 2/16/05
Posts: 14
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Date: 5/5/13 10:16 PM

I have gone in and marked the photos for public sharing (still trying to figure out how to work google photos). Let me know if there is still an access problem with them.

I did think that I had the sleeves on backwards with the first jacket I worked on starting two years ago, but that is not the case. It certainly looks that way however! This problem has been consistent with several tailored jacket patterns from various designers, which would make sense if I am causing the problem by grading the sleeve down.

This problem has been driving me crazy and I have tossed so many jackets, fully interfaced, tailored and lined because of this. If I could just fix this problem I would be a very happy woman. I am determined to get a classic, princess seamed (preferably armhole princess) jacket pattern that I can use for a basic business wardrobe. I have been working on mastering this for a couple of years, and have gotten much better except for this frustrating problem!

thanks
-- Edited on 5/5/13 10:17 PM --

rosehatten
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In reply to olydix <<
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Date: 5/6/13 7:56 AM

Hi Olidix,

I think Nancy's comment on the sleeve cap is your answer. A few months ago I made a linen jacket and the sleeves did the same thing. I took it to my ASG meeting and the gals all thought I had put the sleeves in backwards. So I redid them, but had the same issue.

If you make a muslin of the sleeve and mark the horizontal balance line, then you will be able to release that cap enough to get the balance line straight and will see how much to add to the cap. You could look at Sarah Veblen's Fitting book to see some pictures of it. Once I did that, I solved the twisting wrinkle issue.

Rose

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