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pattern drafting reality check please!
for a dress design
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 5/6/13 6:10 PM

This is my first ever attempt at drafting a dress from scratch. After some drafting classes as part of my dressmaking course it is starting to make a bit more sense.

However, the design I want to make has got some unusual features (uneven waist band, triple bust darting) and I am a bit worried about translating this in to a pattern.

I'd be extremely grateful if those who have done pattern drafting before could have a little look here at my attempts to draw the design at quarter scale.

I dont know what I'd do without pattern review - the help and advice here is fantastic!

petro
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petro  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/6/13 6:21 PM

That looks OK, depending on how you interpret the sketch. The sketch has quite a deep dip to the bodice, and the collar or shaped yoke at the top in the sketch seems to sit pretty far out on the shoulders. Your full size block hasn't got a waist dart? I probably wouldn't split the bust dart into two unless I was making this for someone with a large cup size, it seems unnecessary.

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rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to petro <<
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Date: 5/6/13 6:33 PM

hello Petro

Thanks for the feedback. The full size block has got a waist dart, I didn't draw it in so as to avoid confusion (as I wanted to show how I had moved the upper dart). But if you look at the quarter sized drawing of the front bodice you'll see it there drawn in. I think I should have labelled things a bit better.

With regard to the bust dart, I was just copying the design of the original dress I am basing this on. Which do you think would be more flattering, a side dart and waist dart, or a diagonal dart and waist dart combination? I'm a B cup bust if that helps.

As to the collar, I'm going to wok on that bit later on once I get a feel for how things look in terms of balance/proportion. Its all very well me drawing a picture, but it might not actually work out quite how I had planned in reality - I dont want the collar falling off my shoulders!

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 5/7/13 4:25 PM

ok, I've sewn up my pattern pieces and have a finished (mini) dress. The inverted box pleats were a tad fiddly (1.5cm to work with is a bit on the small side), but overall I think it helps give an idea of what I'm working towards.

The good news, organza silk interlining really helps give the circle skirt a boost. The box pleats work as intended. I think I can work on the collar and waist band now without too many complications.

One big issue, how to improve the bust shaping so I dont look like Madonna! Its very hard to create small curved darts on a doll sized dress. Would anyone recommend reducing the dart length so the two dont meet quite so closely together?

Photos here

petro
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Date: 5/8/13 7:17 AM

On a block the darts run to the bust point, but when you draft a pattern from them you stop the darts at least an inch from the bust point, more for larger cup sizes. I think a side dart would be fine on this, its not a feature, just there to provide shaping. Its easier to sort out those finer points on your full size. Its looking good so far.

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rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to petro <<


Date: 5/11/13 6:26 PM

thank you petro, that isn't something my tutor has mentioned yet so I didnt know. It makes sense though.

I think I'm going to go with the waist and side diagonal dart combination, as it looks quite flattering with the mini version I have made.

I'm wondering if I have made the inverted pleats too small. On the 1:4 scale model I drafted them to be 1.5cm (in reality almost too small to create), on the full scale pattern they would be 6cm each. Do you think this is too small? I dont want to create a rod for my own back...

I've not worked a great deal with pleats before, hence my hesitation.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 5/21/13 6:29 PM

for those of you who kindly helped me by providing advice, I thought you might like to know I've made progress!

I've got all of the full size pattern pieces drafted now, including tweaking the bodice darts to have a more rounded finish. It's been a real learning curve, but I feel quite chuffed at making it this far - next, I get to see how well things fit by making a full size toile.

If you would like to see photos, please click
here.

Oh, one last question if I may. How do I position the collar piece in terms of grain line? my tutor wasn't sure, and I'm less than confident. It's an unusual shape.

Mishogawear
Mishogawear
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Date: 5/22/13 3:59 PM

That is so cool. I'm impressed.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 7/12/13 3:31 AM

so - this thread is from some time ago. For those who saw the initial little beginnings, I thought an update might be in order.

Here are photos of the full size version, all done bar the hemming. I have had quite a few learning experiences. Getting asymmetrical pieces to hang on grain, how to hand dye, and a few other things.

But it looks like how I imagined! one other lesson. It really is worth starting small scale to work out the basic issues.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 7/12/13 8:06 AM

Yay you! You did it!!! She looks fabulous. :D

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~Gem in the prairie

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