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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Inseam Question

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Inseam Question
Does anyone know why the back would be shorter than the front?
StudioCherie

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Date: 5/9/13 4:52 PM

I just read this article about how to ease the inseam, and it leaves me wondering why is the back inseam drafted to be shorter than the front inseam?
Here is the article:
Threads Article on Inseam Stitching

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Cherie

AdaH
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Date: 5/9/13 5:33 PM

the difference will cause the back leg to cup just a little bit.

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Ada

StudioCherie

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Date: 5/9/13 9:28 PM

And you want that? Without that little bit of ease, will the pants look like they are pulling at the leg? I am drafting a pants pattern for myself, so I want to know why. Thanks!

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Cherie

simplystitches
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Date: 5/9/13 10:42 PM

It's such a small amount and eased over a length that when it's done and pressed you don't even notice it.

It's a very subtle difference but it does make the pants hang better.

Debbie

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Date: 5/10/13 0:30 AM

I just read that article, and my first thought when seeing the pant shape at the back is that it might fix that "bubble" problem that appears under some of our rear ends. Next time I make pants I'm going to think about that and check my pattern. Very interesting!

Barbara3
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Date: 5/10/13 5:46 PM

I've always read that the longer piece goes against the feed dogs to help ease it to the shorter piece, such as when when easing a sleeve head into an armhole (the sleeve head goes against the feed dogs because it is longer). So, wouldn't that mean that the pant front inseam goes against the feed dogs, and the pant back inseam goes directly under the pressure foot? I wondered if there was an error in that Threads article.

After posting this, I just went back to look at the article and noticed that someone in the discussion section below the article mentions this too. So, I've edited this PR post to paste the confusing description from the article.....

It's instruction #5 -

Quote:
5. When the seam is sewn, be sure to place the back (the shorter and more bias piece) down on the feed dogs. The machine can help ease the back inseam fullness to the front inseam when sewn.


What do you think?

-- Edited on 5/10/13 6:07 PM --
kkkkaty
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Date: 5/10/13 6:15 PM

well, now that you mention it, I think I recall that you are supposed to slightly stretch the back seam so it will fit the longer front seam.That should bring the back of the pant in just a little and take out a tad bit of fullness. If you gather the front to meet the back you're doing the opposite (and making the front a little shorter). Does that make sense? Hard to explain, working off intuition here.

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kkkkaty
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Date: 5/10/13 6:34 PM

This has a good discussion: inseam lengths

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KathySews
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Date: 5/10/13 6:59 PM

I took Sandra Betzina's class on pants fitting and she talked about this. It is to give a nicer fit in the seat and the pants hang better -- as others have said

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 5/10/13 7:21 PM

You want a little more fullness at the front for fabric ease over the front of the thigh, which is usually fuller than the back of the leg.

The layer to be eased goes next to the feed dogs.

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

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