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Forum > Fitting Woes > Front Armscye Gaping ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Front Armscye Gaping
Armhole adjustment
Skirler
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Skirler
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Date: 5/13/13 7:51 AM

Morning everyone. I am having a heckuva time trying to get rid of some front armhole/armscye gaping and I have no idea what to do now.

I have already skimmed 3/4" from the front shoulder (blending to the original shoulder at the neck), thereby raising the armhole. I really would like to figure out a flat pattern adjustment to keep this a dartless knit top, but if all you marvelous people say "dart" - then I guess that's the answer. Can anyone help? Hopefully, the links to the pictures are below.

First Picture

Second Picture

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Dina
Short and petite are not synonyms!

JTink
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In reply to Skirler <<
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Date: 5/13/13 8:34 AM

Skirler, it looks like there is need for a petite adjustment between the upper bust and shoulder. Just fold out the amount needed, from neck line to armhole.

Skirler
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Skirler
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 5/13/13 9:13 AM

Oh seriously?? It's *that* simple of an adjustment?? YAY you!

------
Dina
Short and petite are not synonyms!

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 5/13/13 9:18 AM

Hi there. I like Jtink's recommendation, but your shoulders are very similar to mine--rounded forward with a flat spot near the ridge. It's not just your front armhole, it's the back as well. You have about a quart inch gap in the back (take a look at the white teapot on the shelf, and then look at the part of your back near that in the picture).

When you have a forward shoulder, you need to remove from the front and add that amount to the back; you don't take off just at the front. Not knowing what the original muslin looked like, I'm going to go with the photo you posted.

To adjust, you draw a line at the middle shoulder seam, straight down and have it end to about the middle of the armscye on both front and back bodice pieces. Then you draw a line from the armscye, perpendicular to the vertical line you drew from the shoulder, on both front and back bodice pieces, having this line end at the vertical line. Then cut on these two lines, on both front and back bodice pieces.

You lower the small cut piece on the front bodice about 3/4" and raise it on the back bodice 3/4", adding tissue underneath. True your shoulder seams and you should be good to go.

What this does is roll the outside portion of your shoulder seam forward, to accommodate the forward rolling shoulders and the flat space in the back. The photo shows you still need to alter this 1/4" more, as indicated by the diagonal folds in the front, and the gap in the back.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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Skirler
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Date: 5/13/13 9:30 AM

Are you suggesting I do both what Jtink suggests and then make your suggested 1/4" adjustment as well? Sorry - I'm a little confused.

This is my muslin, by the way :)

------
Dina
Short and petite are not synonyms!

clothingengineer
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Date: 5/13/13 9:53 AM

I think you need to do a sloped shoulder adjustment. The giveaway for me are the diagonal drag lines at the sides (both front and back) and how the edge of the shoulder is sticking up.

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-- Anne
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Skirler
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Date: 5/13/13 10:06 AM

Even though I've already taken off 3/4" at the shoulder?

Damn me and my narrow shoulders. I'm getting ready to throw in the proverbial towel :(

------
Dina
Short and petite are not synonyms!

tourist
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Date: 5/13/13 10:13 AM

I am not a fitting whiz, but my solution for this is to undo the shoulder seams and pin them on myself (or my paper dress form which has my body quirks) ignoring the seam allowances and just moving the shoulder seams around until it is correct. Typically for me, the outer edge of the front has to be lifted a bit and that takes out the gap. But I also do an fba which adds a dart.

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 5/13/13 10:17 AM

I'm not exactly sure what her "petite adjustment" is, because I'm certainly not petite at 5'8". I like her suggestions alot, but being as your shoulders look very similar to mine, I'd suggest you go with just what I'm saying. But being as you already raised the front shoulder only on this muslin, you also need to adjust the back. You might want to start over with a new muslin. Threads magazine had a great article on this method. Singer's The Perfect Fit (sewing book) has great pictures, and also recommends doing it this way if you have more than 5/8" to change. Under 5/8", you can slope it off the shoulder seams, rather than drawing and cutting out a box.

The tattoo on your arm isn't straight, as well as your arm doesn't cover your side seam, but is back from that. That tells me too that your shoulders roll forward.

I was looking for a side photo of me to show you how much my shoulders roll forward; more on the right than on the left. If I find it, I'll post it here.

Here's a diagram for you:
-- Edited on 5/13/13 10:54 AM --

Found the photo. It's from quite a few years ago, but the shoulder is more pronounced now.

-- Edited on 5/13/13 11:09 AM --

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

Skirler
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Date: 5/13/13 10:50 AM

I have that book, so I will review again. I read through it and looked at their examples - and since the wrinkles in my pics didn't necessarily look like the ones presented for forward shoulder, I never thought to make that kind of adjustment. But I will try again.

I raised the armhole from the original pattern (it is a Lutterloh pattern) as it was practically indecently low. Plus like I said, I already skimmed off 3/4" the front shoulder (which comes right from the book, Perfect Fit, by the way - adjusting the front arm only).

I'm getting so confused and frustrated. But I really appareciate everyone's suggestions. I guess it's back to the proverbial drawing board.

I'm tempted to go back to the original shoulder and start there. I take it a forward shoulder adjustment is different than the adjustment for sloping shoulder??

Edited because consonants are just as important as vowels.
-- Edited on 5/13/13 10:51 AM --

------
Dina
Short and petite are not synonyms!

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