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Forum > Fitting Woes > Vertical ease; also broad back--can I use two sizes? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Vertical ease; also broad back--can I use two sizes?
Mole Princess
Mole Princess
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Date: 5/15/13 11:49 AM

I'm making a dress for a friend and before I make the soil separator cloth muslin I wanted to ask two things.

From studying my own garments I'm gaining a sense of how much horizontal wearing ease I like in different places--an inch at the waist, two inches at high hip, four at the hip or six for a more flowing look in a skirt. That will give me a starting point for her. But I'm wondering about wearing ease for vertical measurements. I don't have fitted garments that answer this question for me. If I measure my friend from the bust measuring line to the waist line, front and back, then would the dress fit best if I cut it to the exact same vertical distance, or do we add vertical ease, and if so, how much?

(I know I can shorten or lengthen my muslin as needed but would like to come close on the first cut.)

Also--she may have a broad back while being smaller in front. Does it ever work to simply cut the back a size larger than the front, and use the sleeve from the larger size? Or does this distort the armhole too much?

In this case the sleeve cap even calls for gathers, so a sleeve ending up half a size too big for a hybrid armhole could just be given extra gathers and I would think that would do it. But fools go where angels fear to tread, so I'd love some input.

Thanks!




LauraTS
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Date: 5/15/13 6:06 PM

Unless I'm picturing it differently, using a larger size in the back would just make it wider overall; it shouldn't change the back armscye at all. At least I wouldn't do it that way. You're likely right that if it's a gathered sleeve it won't be that fussy and you could make it work.

I've never thought about vertical ease in precisely that fashion; I would think that you would want to use body measurements or close to it, because gravity is going to pull the fabric down a bit as it's worn relative to how the pattern pieces are measured flat, and that should give you the minor amount of extra vertical room one might need.

I look forward to hearing what the experts think.

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Marie367
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Date: 5/15/13 10:15 PM

I need a round back and sometimes a broad back too. Going up a size makes everything big-maybe too big. Unless she needs a bigger armhole I would not do that. A broad back adjustment is really easy. Someone a couple of years ago posted the Pattern Alteration help form NMSU Here is the site: NMSU
HTH

Learn To Sew
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Date: 5/16/13 9:23 AM

Great chart.

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Irina Grace
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Date: 5/16/13 11:07 PM

Mole Princess, I do not think you have to add a vertical ease - those measurements have to be precise for getting a good fit, especially on fitted garments.

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Mole Princess
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Date: 5/17/13 7:40 AM

Thanks for the feedback, everyone! Maybe this is why I've never heard about vertical ease--because there shouldn't be any. I'll cut my muslin that way and see how it fits my friend.

Thank you for the NMSU link, too. I have Sarah Veblen's book and will have fun comparing the two, as it seems that one some issues there may be more than one approach.

This is such a helpful forum--thanks all.

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