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Sleeve Cap Ease and Armscye
Sew Confused
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Sew Confused  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/15/13 4:52 PM

Has anyone here ever tried drafting a sleeve cap like Kathleen Fasanella discusses here and, if so, how did it work out for you? How did you go about drafting it and what modifications were required for the armscye?

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
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JTink
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In reply to Sew Confused

Date: 5/15/13 6:20 PM

I wish I could, but it's a bit to involved for me to get my head around. I hope someone does chime in who has actually tried it. Would be interesting to see the results.
SusanPartlan
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SusanPartlan
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In reply to Sew Confused
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Date: 5/15/13 7:06 PM

Hi Sew Confused,

Yes, and it worked out beautifully. I documented the whole blow-by-blow process on my blog.

This post summarizes the results and includes links to previous key posts:

http://www.stylemadebyhand.com/2013/04/04/here-is-the-motb-blouse-in-rose-silk/

I also wrote about it on Kathleen's forum in the section Patterns & Fitting, topic Sleeve pattern making dissertation.

If you like, I'd be happy to talk to you more about the details via email at [email protected]

------
Blogger, home sewer and choral singer starting a boutique business with my husband offering his menswear designs as patterns for the home sewing market.

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 5/15/13 9:38 PM

In Sarah Veblen's video tutorial on sleeves in the 10 Clever Techniques online class (click on Online Classes above), she's wearing a jacket with beautifully set in sleeves in a plaid that matches horizontal and vertical stripes. Perhaps it would worth asking her how she did it. If you a FOPR, it's probably a free class in your account.


-- Edited on 5/15/13 9:43 PM --
-- Edited on 5/15/13 9:44 PM --

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Debbie

Sew Confused
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In reply to SusanPartlan
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Date: 5/15/13 10:09 PM

Thanks! I am going to study those posts, although I fear they may be too technical for me. I'll let you know if I can understand them enough to formulate coherent questions.

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/paulag1955/sewing-inspiration/

Sew Confused
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster

Date: 5/15/13 10:10 PM

Thanks, I will check that out.

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/paulag1955/sewing-inspiration/

SusanPartlan
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SusanPartlan
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In reply to Sew Confused

Date: 5/16/13 10:57 AM

Don't worry about the Math. We just documented it as a proof of concept for anyone who might be interested. The important things are understanding what the shapes mean and how to draft them.

------
Blogger, home sewer and choral singer starting a boutique business with my husband offering his menswear designs as patterns for the home sewing market.

Sew Confused
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In reply to SusanPartlan

Date: 5/16/13 11:03 AM

I'm math-phobic!

I'm just starting to teach myself to draft patterns so I will take you up on your offer of more info when I'm actually working on sleeves.

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/paulag1955/sewing-inspiration/

SusanPartlan
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SusanPartlan
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In reply to Sew Confused

Date: 5/16/13 5:36 PM

It really is a simple as changing the armhole to look more like the diagram on pg 168 of Kathleen's book. The first time I drafted the armscye, I made too deep of a scoop. A gentle rotation forward is all you need. I think in one of my posts I provided a photo of the deeper cut -- I made the scoop more shallow on the next iteration but didn't provide a photo. It takes a little experimenting, in my case 4 muslins to get this just right.

The sleeve cap adjustments are very similar. I removed the ease by first flattening the top of the cap curve -- the reduction was 1 1/2 inches at the shoulder seam point, tapering gradually to no reduction at the side seams. This leaves the armscye length unchanged. Then, I gently deepened the scoop at the front, removing a bit more ease (not that much was left at this point), and added a balancing amount to the back. This change is depicted on Kathleen's blog.

I would provide photos but my pattern drafting examples are a mess at the moment, waiting (in line) to be digitized. My husband is launching a menswear shirt pattern later this summer and has 4 other designs in the queue ahead of mine awaiting digitizing/refining, so it will be awhile before I can print pieces of my own design. (We hope to include my designs as we are able, but the menswear patterns are higher priority.) If you like, I can trace my sleeve and the the front and back pieces of my bodice sloper with the armsyce/cap changes and mail the drawings to you via regular mail. Let me know if you would like the drawings and if so please send me your address.

------
Blogger, home sewer and choral singer starting a boutique business with my husband offering his menswear designs as patterns for the home sewing market.

SusanPartlan
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SusanPartlan
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster

Date: 5/16/13 5:48 PM


Hi Debbie,

You've probably already seen this but this post on Kathleen Fasanella's blog explains how to match plaids and stripes:

http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-cut-stripes-and-plaids-to-match/

------
Blogger, home sewer and choral singer starting a boutique business with my husband offering his menswear designs as patterns for the home sewing market.

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