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which body type does each company draft for?
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Mole Princess
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Date: 5/22/13 9:02 AM

Inspired by a comment in another thread . . . (the "well-drafted" thread . . . could anyone share which body type each pattern company (Big 4 and indie) draft for?

I've picked up that Big 4 assume hourglass and B cup, with Vogue maybe better for ladies under a B, and that Petite Plus is for a plus figure with narrow shoulders and full bust. Correct me if I'm wrong!

So if anyone would comment on cup size, shoulder width, and how flat or not flat a bottom each company is assuming, that would be very helpful.

I suppose I should care about the waist too, but since that's the easiest to change, I really don't . . .

Thanks, all!

Oh--and if anyone wants to comment on forward shoulder/rounded upper back etc., that would be great too.

Actually I like altering patterns, but if I didn't have to . . .
-- Edited on 5/22/13 9:16 AM --

Marie367
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Date: 5/22/13 9:18 AM

I don't know if this is an answer or not. I am tall; when I was young and started sewing, I was thin. Simplicity worked great for me then. Even though I have put on some pounds in the middle (mid-life-ugh), Simplicity is still working best for me of the Big 4. McCalls always seem to run big through the shoulders and neck. Butterick has never worked well for me and I am not sure why. I am having the best luck with pants patterns from Burda. The crotch curve is straighter and the backside seems to sit lower on the Burda (which is what I need). They are just drafted differently. I keep trying Simplicity pants patterns but the crotch curve on a Simplicity curves downward not L shaped. Kwik Sew is drafted differently and almost always fits better without alot of fitting issues. Don't know if this helps or not.

clothingengineer
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Date: 5/22/13 9:34 AM

Marfy drafts for a 5'7" B cup slightly short waisted hourglass with broad, rather square shoulders, long legs, and slimmer arms, legs, and hips. I think waist to fullest part of the hip measurement is 7". Armholes are not as tight as Burda. I find the upper back to run a bit narrow and have to do a 1/2" broad back adjustment compared to a 1/4" one for other companies such as Style Arc and Burda. The size chart allows for a 9" difference between waist and hip and 7.5" difference between bust and waist. I'm basing this off my experience with their size 42. I usually add at least 1" to the arm width (elbows are cut very tight) and lengthen the sleeves 2.25".

Sewaholic patterns cater to longer waisted pears with average width shoulders, a smaller bust, and defined waist. They are one of the best for those that have fuller bottoms. The size chart allows for a 12" difference between waist and hip. By the size chart I'm almost a perfect 8 in Sewaholic but I usually go down to a 6 for a snugger look. I don't need to do anything to adjust for my fuller front thighs in Sewaholic.

Style Arc drafts for an average to narrow shoulder, B cup bust with much of the fullness on top. The bust will fit me but with princess seams I usually need to pinch out fullness from the upper part of the curve. Style Arc is based on Australian RTW and fits more like RTW than most patterns. I usually have to extend the waist shaping, though overall the length of a top or shirt will be good out of the envelope. I would say the butt they draft for is average to fuller, though I haven't made a woven pants pattern from them yet to confirm this. The upper hip area in the back below the waist tends to be very snug and I will often add to just the side seams in the back and not the front for a top. There's a 9" difference between waist and hip and 7" difference between bust and waist. I only need to add 1/4" to the front thigh. I like to work with a size 8 in Style Arc tops, dresses, and shirts, and a 12 for skirts and pants. I usually add 1/2" to 3/4" width to the sleeves and lengthen them 1". The armholes are comfortably cut, not overly large like some of the Big 4 but not as tight as Burda.

With all of these companies I always need to add a dart or fullness at the back shoulder or else I get gaping armholes from my prominent shoulder blades. Burda always seems to build this in.
-- Edited on 5/23/13 8:42 AM --

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itsterry
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Date: 5/22/13 1:02 PM

Anne....that's a lot of great information! TFS!

jennierigg
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Date: 5/22/13 1:24 PM

So it sounds like Sewaholic bottoms would be perfect for me! Now I just need a company to draft tops for short torso, broad shoulders, G-cup breasts and tiny waist...

#notholdingbreath
-- Edited on 5/22/13 1:24 PM --

Mole Princess
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Date: 5/22/13 1:31 PM

jennierigg, I get the feeling that a lot of product lines started with someone who couldn't fit herself commercially and so drafted her own and then sold them!

Anne, thank you for that helpful information! So Burda has mercy on the computer-stooped . . . that's good to know.




-- Edited on 5/22/13 1:32 PM --

sewme47
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Date: 5/22/13 1:47 PM

Quote: jennierigg
So it sounds like Sewaholic bottoms would be perfect for me! Now I just need a company to draft tops for short torso, broad shoulders, G-cup breasts and tiny waist...



#notholdingbreath
-- Edited on 5/22/13 1:24 PM --

Hahaha. Yes, can anyone point me to the company that drafts for narrow, sloping, forward shoulders, flat rear, and big thighs?

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jennierigg
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Date: 5/22/13 2:09 PM

Quote: Mole Princess
I get the feeling that a lot of product lines started with someone who couldn't fit herself commercially and so drafted her own and then sold them!

Yeah, I got that feeling too LOL who knows maybe you'll see Jennie Brand patterns one day :)
Sew Confused
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Date: 5/22/13 2:41 PM

There are so many different body types, I think the sewing public would have been better served if the Big 4 hadn't standardized their sizing.

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diane s
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Date: 5/22/13 6:19 PM

With Indy patterns I look at the designer's shape, I think you can get a feel for the sizing from that.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

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