Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > What is this dart called? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
What is this dart called?
And what do I do with it?
westmoon
star
westmoon  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
IRELAND
Member since 9/7/11
Posts: 558
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/24/13 7:11 AM

I've been looking at some patterns and I've noticed quite a lot of armhole princess coat and jacket patterns have an extra dart in the centre front panel at the bust apex. What is this dart called (does it have a special name, even?)

Here's a random pattern illustration from Burda to illustrate what I mean:



My intuition is that this dart is intended so that you don't have to ease a heavy coat or suiting fabric around the princess seam curve quite as drastically and so it lies flat to the body at the front. Is that right or does it serve some other purpose?

I have a low, full bust. Obviously the extra dart will need to move downward to match the lower position of the bust apex on my body. However, is the position/size of the dart affected in any other way by an FBA? I use the FFRP method to adjust princess seam bodices, if that makes any difference.

------
http://sewingnovice.blogspot.co.uk/
One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

nancy2001
starstarstarstar
nancy2001  Friend of PR
Advanced
AL USA
Member since 12/3/05
Posts: 6429
Login to reply to this post

In reply to westmoon <<
thumbsup 4 members like this.


Date: 5/24/13 8:53 AM

I understand that's not called an armhole princess style but rather a side panel style with dart. The side panel seam is placed closer to the sides of a garment than a princess seam would be. Side panel styles are simply a design variation and can be found on many types of jackets and coats. In fact, I'm working on one now for PR's Natural Fibers contest.

I'm not very familar with FBAs, but you will have to adjust the dart to fit your bustline. Page 145 of Sarah Veblen's excellent book Perfect Fitting shows you exactly how to adjust the bust dart of a side panel bodice for a fuller bust. Hope this helps.

------
No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

westmoon
star
westmoon  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
IRELAND
Member since 9/7/11
Posts: 558
Login to reply to this post

In reply to nancy2001 <<


Date: 5/24/13 11:47 AM

Oh! That makes sense! Thank you for that explanation.

------
http://sewingnovice.blogspot.co.uk/
One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

wenznz
star
wenznz  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 7/8/11
Posts: 340
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 5/24/13 5:31 PM

There was a post about just this type of dart on Sherry's blog a little while ago - she refers to them as Dior darts.
pattern scissors cloth

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> What is this dart called?

Merchants on PR
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Break your Serger Out of the Box
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Break your Serger Out of the Box

Online Sewing Classes
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts
Fee: $39.99
(Regular $39.99)
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts

BurdaStyle Magazine 02-2013-107 Boucle Jacket
photo
Review by Jstarr4250 on 1/20/14
Read Review

Christine Jonson Wrap Dress
Christine Jonson Wrap Dress

Details
Price: $18.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sewing Workshop Verona Jacket & Coat
Sewing Workshop Verona Jacket & Coat

Details
Price: $22.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Oxford Cap Digital Pattern ( Size newborn - child )
Peek-A Boo Oxford Cap Digital Pattern ( Size newborn - child )

Details
Price: $4.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Stella Sun Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -8 years )
Peek-A Boo Stella Sun Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -8 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCall's 5103 Blouses
photo
Review by Cheryl Ree... on 12/5/06
Read Review

Simplicity 1642 Pattern ( Size 10-12-14-16-18 )
Simplicity 1642 Pattern ( Size 10-12-14-16-18 )

Details
Price: $2.49
Add to Bag Add to Bag

New Look 6939 Pattern( Size 8-10-12-14-16-18 )
New Look 6939 Pattern( Size 8-10-12-14-16-18 )

Details
Price: $4.49
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN