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Pants Patterns versus RTW Pants
Observations on crotch front and back measurements
annie11
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annie11
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Date: 5/27/13 9:01 PM

I just bought a couple of pairs of RTW pants today, and I marveled at how well the RTW pants fit. I've struggled with fitting pants patterns so I made some comparisons.

I measured several pairs of RTW pants that I own, and the back crotch lengths were 4" to 5" longer than the front crotch lengths.

Then I measured pants patterns. The backs were only 2" longer than the fronts. The exceptions were Burda, Ottobre, and McCall's Palmer-Pletsch, in which the backs were 3-1/2"-4" longer than the fronts.

Is this a fundamental flaw in the basic slopers that the big pattern companies use? What is going on?!?

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Karla Kizer
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Date: 5/27/13 9:38 PM

I did the same experiment some years ago, came up with the same front vs back measurement differences, and concluded that we are being hoodwinked by the Big 4 pants patterns. Burda was better but still not quite where I wanted to be. Since I switched to Jalie, Ottobre and StyleArc, I've actually had FUN making pants. Oh - and Sewaholic, if you are a pear-shape.

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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



annie11
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Date: 5/27/13 11:06 PM

Thanks, Karla. That was the conclusion I was coming to, but thought I must be missing something. It doesn't make sense to me.

I feel like having a big bonfire for big 4 pants patterns (save the Palmer Pletsch ones). Do you have a favorite Style Arc pant? I think it's time I gave them a try!

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Sewnforever
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Date: 5/28/13 2:24 AM

This is interesting . . . I have been thinking the same recently having made a pair of Burda summer trousers which despite measuring myself carefully etc still have fit issues and I won't wear. Why is it I can go into any shop and buy RTW - admittedly some fitting better than others, but all basically wearable, yet every pattern I muslin has multiple problems?

Karla Kizer
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In reply to annie11 <<


Date: 5/28/13 6:41 AM

The SA Linda Pants is now my go-to pattern when I want smooth pull-on pants that don't look like elastic waist pants, and it's a good place to start in the SA offerings. The recommended fabric is bengaline - a nicer fabric in Australia than in our Joanns. The Joann's stuff works, but I'm not crazy about the feel of it. Rayon/poly/lycra works perfectly and feels better. Reviews A project I need to get to soon is the SA Wendy pant for my daughter. I'll have to adapt the leg shape to boot cut and add a front fly to copy her favorite RTW, but the lowered wide waistband is exactly what she likes.

Jalie: again, designed for fabrics with stretch. I like both 2909 and 2561. Jalie pants Reviews of 2909 and Reviews of 2561

Happy hunting!
-- Edited on 5/28/13 6:48 AM --

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



annie11
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Date: 5/28/13 10:16 AM

I think I'll try the Linda and the Wendy! I bought several yards of RPL from FabricMart a while back that will be great to try them out. One question for you- my waist is a size larger than my hips. Would you recommend going larger or smaller?

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Karla Kizer
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In reply to annie11 <<
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Date: 5/28/13 11:19 AM

I bought the pattern based on hip size, then slashed the traced pattern vertically. I spread the slashes at the top edge to make the waist bigger, then added the same amount to the waistband. Worked perfectly and didn't change the side seam and inseam shapes.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



Ms. McCall
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Date: 5/28/13 2:11 PM

I did Kenneth Kings Jeanius class, and copied some J-Crew jeans. I have to say, no matter what amount of fitting I did, I would never have arrived at that crotch curve by starting with a Big 4 pattern. I also compared it to Burda, and it was closer, but a different curve.

If you have pants that fit you well, and you want to make more pants, I would highly recommend taking the guess work out of it, and copy some of the well-fitting pants that you already have.

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KathySews
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Date: 5/28/13 2:17 PM

Interesting conversation. I get so frustrated with pants fit. Maybe I am just buying the wrong patterns.

MrsCharisma
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Date: 5/28/13 2:45 PM

I agree. I have muslined a few pants patterns and the most successful were two New Look patterns. I still had to remove an inch out of the front but I agree that most pants patterns are drafted to be far too high in the front.

I have 2 really good fitting RTW pants and the front length is much shorter- like 5-6 inches - than the back.

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

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