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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Avoiding puckered seams ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Avoiding puckered seams
like around armholes top stitching
Laurie Lou
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Laurie Lou  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 10/16/05
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Date: 5/31/13 2:12 PM

I have this very nice poly crepe but it has been a dickens to sew. I am dreading the topstitching that I have to do around the armholes. Anyone with a tip for me? I also left a comment for a reply on a dated 2005 topic but thougth this might get more hits for me. I have loosened the thread tension to no avail and pressing the seam after didn't help much. I have yet to pull slightly from behind as someone suggested. Not sure if this will work, Oh and I'm using a #8 micro needle too. grrr... I'm looking for a magic bullet on this one.

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Laurie Lou

Barbara R
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Barbara R  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/1/13 0:51 AM

IIRC, I believe that in one of Sarah Veblen's classes, she states this is the one fabric she no longer even tries to sew with, as good results are practically impossible. I'd skip the topstitching at the very least. Good luck! Hand seaming may be your best bet.

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/1/13 1:53 PM

Did you try spraying the heck out of it with spray starch before stitching?
-- Edited on 6/1/13 1:54 PM --

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Debbie

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 6/1/13 1:56 PM

The pickstitch is a great look.

Here are the instructions.



-- Edited on 6/1/13 1:59 PM --

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

wendyrb
wendyrb  Friend of PR
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In reply to Laurie Lou <<


Date: 6/1/13 2:35 PM

A few very basic suggestions, and because you are an Intermediate, that you may already have done it all.

* Since you are bending back on the curve, clip the armhole seam, notch out the sleeve cap as needed and grade the seam down. Anything you can do to reduce bulk.

* Press the seam over a ham and let it cool before you move it. Let it relax and see if your seam is laying smoothly or if it already has puckers. Press again as needed.

* Do an edge stitch rather than a foot stitch. With less fabric between the top stitch and the seam, if there's a ripple, it's less obvious.

* Press again as above and you may alleviate any issues.

* Assume you're using poly thread since is had some stretch in it.

* I've never tried this, but know folks who put tissue paper/stabilizer underneath and tear away after stitching.

I can't say enough about pressing, although poly fabs are pretty bullet proof! Nice to keep us wrinkle free during the day, but at the ironing board- yucko!

Yes, in the Sheers Class, Sarah Veblen says this cloth is too much for her! Do not at all mean to discourage you. Take heart, good luck and let us know how it goes.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

elcsews
elcsews  Friend of PR
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In reply to Laurie Lou <<


Date: 6/3/13 1:08 PM

Have you tried using a lightweight tear-away stabilizer between the fabric and presser foot as you sew? This might give a smoother look to the topstitching.

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