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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Pants Back Horizontal Drag Lines Help ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants Back Horizontal Drag Lines Help
Too Much or Too Little Fabric?
Runrover

Runrover  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/1/13 9:15 AM

I have being sewing Kwik Sew 3314 Pull-on Pants for several years. It's my go to pattern for easy, smmer linen pants. Unfortunately, fitting them has always been hit or miss -- more my fault than the pattern. Instead of a more methodical approach, I'll generally just "scoop a bit here" and maybe "lengthen a bit here." Sometimes, the fit is good and sometimes as the photos below show, the fit is definitely not so good.
This is the first time I've had these horizontal drag lines in the back. I'm not sure if I need to add more ease/fabric at at the side seams, add a "wedge" near the thigh area, deepen the crotch depth or shorten the crotch length. In other words, I need help. :confused:
Any advice or feedback would be tremendously appreciated. Thanks!
Kwik Sew 3314 Back Drag Lines photo PantsBack2_zpse17c0f2a.jpg' target='_blank'>KS3314
Kwik Sew 3314 Back Drag Lines2 photo PantsBack_zpse81ff3b4.jpg' target='_blank'>KS Pants Back2

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Cynthia

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/1/13 10:33 AM

You need more length between the waist and the crotch point along the sides. If you pull the waist down about 2-3 inches, the drag lines should disappear.

What does the front look like?

-- Edited on 6/1/13 10:39 AM --

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Debbie

Runrover

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In reply to Debbie Lancaster <<


Date: 6/1/13 12:37 PM

Thanks so much Debbies. Okay, would this be a "high hip" adjustment? I've posted a picture of the front below. I can see the pull lines going out to the side seams. I would guess this means I need more width in this area?
Pants Front Pull Lines photo 8e9b8029-d92d-408a-b277-175a698bf05b_zps3d41d489.jpg' target='_blank'>KS 3314 Front

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Cynthia

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/1/13 1:44 PM

It's hard to know without a side view. It could be that you need a larger size at the back, both length and width. If you don't have enough width at the back, it could be pulling the front backwards, which would give you those pull lines. A side view will tell us whether your side seam is in the right position. If you could mark the side seam with white chalk or tape before you take the photo, that would help us decide.

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Debbie

Runrover

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Date: 6/1/13 6:37 PM

Debbie: Wow! You were right on the spot with pulling the waist down. I tried on the pants, pulled the waist down a few inches and the lines disappeared.

I'll try to get my "photographer" to do a photo of the side seam marked with white tape.

I'm so appreciative of the shared skills and talents on this site.Thanks a huge bunch.

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Cynthia

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 6/1/13 7:40 PM

Looking at the back view, CB line is too slanted for your type of figure, you need to make it more straight. You'll end up moving the CB by about 3 cm, then slant the Side seam to restore the waist length. As a result your grainline at the back will move away from CB. This will fix this fit flaw.

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www.iconicpatterns.com

Learn To Sew
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In reply to Lena Merrin <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/1/13 8:04 PM

I am reading this thread with great interest. When you tell her the CB line is too slanted for her figure type, what do you mean? You told her to move the CB by 3cm. How and where does she do this? (I said I found this thread greatly interesting)

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I am a Quilter at heart. I love to play with fabrics, patterns and colors. Recently I have discovered I enjoy doing applique. I love making pictures. Using a sewing machine is much easier than counted cross stitch or oil painting for me. I enjoy landscape quilting as well. I am working on my first applique project in the spring of 2014.
Bernina 630, my main machine
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Runrover

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In reply to Lena Merrin <<
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Date: 6/1/13 8:14 PM

Lena, this is very helpful and sounds somewhat similar to what happens when I initially tried to figure out where the fabric needed to be by placing my hand in the back of the pants and manipulating the fabric. When pulling the back fabric more towards the center back - and the center back seam did move -- the drag lines disappeared. The side seam also seemed to be slanted.
I'm a visual/literal learner so would love to know how this translate to what I should do to the pattern piece. Would I move the CB seam inward 3 cm closer to the side seam or 3 cm away from the side seam?
Edited to Add: Would this affect or distort the grainline?Thank you.
-- Edited on 6/1/13 8:17 PM --

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Cynthia

JTink
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Date: 6/2/13 9:41 AM

I'm glued to this thread! And I also toss my request in for pictures(I'm visual too).

Silknmore
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Date: 6/2/13 12:03 PM

Here's one more who's working on "the perfect pants". Peggy Sagers (Silhouette patterns) says that the vertical or diagonal lines mean that the problem is with the circumference. In the case of the first set of photos, I'm thinking there should be more circumference at the true hip up to the high hip, and the pant would then hang on the hip.

Regarding the waist, I would drop the waist, tapering from the center back to the sides, but would make that change after adding circumference to the hip.

Can't wait to see your photos and now I owe you all some photos as I haven't solved my upper leg diagonal drag lines either.

Annette

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Silknmore
http://fabricateandmira.wordpress.com/

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