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Forum > Fitting Woes > Upper chest measurement = too big at neckline, & more... ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Upper chest measurement = too big at neckline, & more...
Amazing fit 2648
Kimbercrow
Kimbercrow
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Date: 6/2/13 10:45 AM

Ok, cut out a muslin for 2648 using upper bust measurement of 38" which is size 16.

Simplicity


http://www.simplicity.com/p-1600-misses-dresses.aspx

This is a princess seamed dress, and I used the D cup side piece (bust is 41"). I cut 16 at the neck, shoulders and underarm, 18 at the side seam and princess seaming to squeak out the extra inch I need at the bust.

Also lengthened at the waist all bodice pieces 2" (I am 6' tall). I chose 2 inches randomly as a starting point.

The way the neckline and shoulder area look on me, it appears to be too wide. When I take the 5/8" seam allowance my bra straps are going to show. I want to pull the muslin neckline onto my shoulders by an inch on each side.... The neckline doesn't look that über wide on the envelope pic.

Is there something that I did wrong on selecting my size?

And the 2" lengthening works for all of the bodice pieces except for the front piece, where is looks better if I take if up about a half inch. Is it normal for this to happen?

In all the years i have sewn, I have only sewn separates and really want to be able to get past the fit issues to make something that fits me. Feeling like I am starting all over with learning to sew....

Thanks!

Kimber
-- Edited on 6/2/13 11:17 AM --
-- Edited on 6/2/13 11:18 AM --
-- Edited on 6/2/13 11:19 AM --

Learn To Sew
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Learn To Sew  Friend of PR
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In reply to Kimbercrow <<
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Date: 6/2/13 11:15 AM

This dress?

dress

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Kimbercrow
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Date: 6/2/13 11:21 AM

Yes. I think it may have two pattern numbers.

I have edited my post to include the link, thanks for the reminder.

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 6/2/13 11:45 AM

What you cannot see are the clothes pins on the back of the dress that help hold the neck line in place (joking, or not?).

Try cutting the neckline smaller.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Sew Confused
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Date: 6/2/13 12:14 PM

Is the shoulder of the dress falling at the right point?

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
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JTink
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Date: 6/2/13 12:53 PM

Looking at the picture, the neck look wide. Look at the shoulders, not much room there for a bra strap. I would imagine if you were to move your arms just so, the neckline would gape. I agree with cutting a smaller size in the neck. You can also raise the neck/shoulders by adding paper(to the pattern) around the entire area.

diane s
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Date: 6/2/13 1:37 PM

When you measured you upper chest, did you pull the tape fairly tight? Basically you're measuring you frame and the tape needs to be firm. If you're in between sizes go down for small bones and up for large.
I agree the neckline in the photo looks wide.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Karla Kizer
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Date: 6/2/13 2:21 PM

Even though you measured as the instructions suggest, there are variables that make that just a rough guess. If you have a broad back or rounded, prominent shoulder blades, then a disproportionate amount of that 38" is going to be in back. To work around that problem, I cut my DD's patterns one size smaller in the front, 1/2 or 1 size larger in back, and ease the back shoulder to fit the smaller front.

Nancy Zieman suggests another measuring method to determine correct pattern size. Stand in front of a mirror wearing a bra, and note the little creases at the front of your armpit, where your arms meet your chest. Measure from crease to crease. 14" = size 14. Every 1/2" smaller or larger changes you to a different pattern size. 13-1/2" = size 12 14-1/2" = size 16, 12-1/2" would suggest a size 8. Using that approach shows how awkwardly drafted the Big 4 patterns are, at least for those of us with normal-to-narrow shoulders and measurable body fat.
-- Edited on 6/2/13 2:31 PM --

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



stirwatersblue
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Date: 6/2/13 2:53 PM

It's also entirely possible that this pattern (like so many others from the Big 4) has way too much ease built in. Before going into complicated alterations of the version you cut, I'd try going down a size to see if that helps.

------
~Gem in the prairie

Kimbercrow
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Date: 6/2/13 4:28 PM

Ok, went and remeasured my high bust. If I pull it a little snug that measurement is now 37". That is with is being snug, but not super tight. If I go super tight I can get down to 34" if I don't breath.

And crease to crease, I am 14 1/2". But if I try and go tighter, in pushing the starting end into me, I can get down to 13".

I guess I will try recut the neck to come in a bit more at the shoulder. With this being a multisize pattern the 16 is the smallest in the pattern I have so I will have to guess. At least I am going to line the dress rather than use facings and have to adjust those too.

When this is all done, I hope to have a TNT base pattern! Thanks,

Kimber

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