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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Setting in sleeves flat for woven or fleece fabric?

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Setting in sleeves flat for woven or fleece fabric?
Setting in sleeves flat for woven or fleece fabric?
Pattycrafty
Pattycrafty  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/6/13 9:06 PM

Hi,
I want to make garments with sleeves using fleece fabric (with no stretch) or woven fabric (with no stretch). The traditional method to install a sleeve for those types of fabric is to sew the side seams, followed by sewing the sleeve seam, followed by inserting the sleeve in its tube configuration into the armhole. Instead, I want to use the knit-fabric technique where you sew the head of the sleeve into the armscye, then sew the side seam and the sleeve seam in one continuous seam. I think it would work if the sleeve does not need to be eased or gathered. I'd love to know if people have successfully done this -- and, if so, any tips? Thanks in advance.

svetlana
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svetlana
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In reply to Pattycrafty <<


Date: 6/6/13 9:49 PM

I can't speak to fleece because I have never made a fleece garmet, but that is my preferred sleeve method for wovens. So much easier.

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Svetlana

Kathi R
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Kathi R  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/6/13 9:54 PM

Setting sleeves flat is a breeze in most fabrics - go for it. I'm sure I have seen patterns with instructions to do it that way ... maybe Kwik Sew and Islander? You can ease a sleeve while the garment is flat too, run the line of ease stitching and shape the sleeve as you would working in the round. I have found that when working with heavy woven fabric, like coating, it is best to insert the sleeve as you described.


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MartiP
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Date: 6/6/13 11:50 PM

I put the sleeve on the botttom next to the feed.

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beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to Pattycrafty <<
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Date: 6/7/13 1:38 AM

On the fleece fabric no stretch, if it's just a loose pullover top, I think it will work fine. On a woven, I probably would not, particular if it's going to fit close to my arm hole. It's not only how you set it in there always, it's also that by having the sleeve set in the round, on some un-giving fabric and if it's close to your arm hole, it could effect your arm reach and comfort, (in a positive way) and also sort of depends on how you plan to finishoff your seams, as it's not really just the same if that arm hole seam is caught into the side seams in that flat construction way always. But try all and see what you like.

When I just look at a garment pattern, I can tell for me if that would work for me or not, but I'm considering all those things about it, at the same time too. On a nicer shirt or Jacket, I always like mine set in, in the round, kind of for all those reasons. On a knit T-shirt or dress, then I flat construct instead.

SandiMacD
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Date: 6/7/13 5:51 AM

I always learn something here! Have never heard of no stretch fleece.

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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 6/7/13 9:45 AM

Beauturbo is right. Some sleeves have a fuller, and thus, higher, cap and need to be set in. Those sleeves are for jackets and other tightly fitting garments. Sewing sleeves flat is a great method, but requires dropping the sleeve cap height to remove some of the fullness, and adding that measurement (how much you dropped it) to the armscye and redrawing the armscye. It's a drafting method.

KwikSew has several patterns of the shirt type (non-set in) sleeves. In fact, they were the first pattern company I used (apart from the Big 4) way back when and those were the only type of sleeves at that time.

Your fleece fabric would work better with a shirt type sleeve as it would not have as much bulk around the armscye as a regular setin sleeve would. What to look for in line drawings (on pattern backs) is upper shoulder and how curved it is. If it's very curved, the pattern has a set-in type. If it looks flatter, it's a shirt type.

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Nancy K
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In reply to Pattycrafty <<
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Date: 6/7/13 9:50 AM

This is how a man's shirt is sewn, but the sleeve cap is low and it doesn't have ease. Almost all set in sleeves have ease, some more than others and a higher sleeve cap which which comes out better sewn it the round and not flat. If your garment has a dropped shoulder your sleeve cap will be lower and chances are that there will not be any or very little ease. You can remove ease and I've removed all of it for leather which cannot be eased, but I still sewed it in in the round. More control and in a jacket looks better.

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tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/7/13 11:47 PM

I have successfully done what you want to do with fleece for jackets. You can ease a bit even if it doesn't stretch. I did Simplicity 4032 this way I think.

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