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Message Board > Fitting Woes > What's up with my side seams? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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What's up with my side seams?
tilting backwards in the hip
Elizabeth made this
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Date: 6/8/13 6:41 PM

In preparation for the jeans contest, I made up another muslin of Jalie 2908 as I changed the flare and wanted to check it. As I was doing so, I remembered that there was something wrong with the side seams that I hadn't fixed on my previous 2 iterations of this pattern. Namely this:


The only thing I can think is that maybe I need some more room in the hip. There aren't any weird wrinkles and the pants do not feel tight in the hip, but the seam just goes wonky from the hip up. Has anyone else had this problem and found a solution?

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HawkeMorningStar7
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Date: 6/8/13 7:11 PM

When I compared the Jalie CB to side seam width at crotch line to similar size in the Style Arc there was a good 1.5 " less . Style Arc compensates for this excess by really angling INwards towards yoke seam moreso than Jalie and really scooping inwards below hook ie upper inseam. Also Style Arc front at crotch line is about 1/4 inch less, maybe to also compensate for larger portion being at back where we may need it more. I LOVE how Style Arc fits my curvy tush. Maybe add a bit at back crotch line to give more room. With stretch denim it may feel OK but I can see grain line also angling towards back.
YEPP fitting jeans can be complex

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Sewliz
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In reply to Elizabeth made this <<
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Date: 6/9/13 11:47 AM

You can move the side seam to the front in the problem area. Just add to the back what you remove from the front. It will affect the pockets so those will need to have a new placement. I did this to some now OOP Jalie non stretch jeans and it worked really well.

Lots of RTW jeans have so little fabric in the front piece relative to the back piece. Often the front side seam is cut almost straight up with no curving out ward at the hip and the back piece makes up practically all the side seam shaping.

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

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In reply to Sewliz <<


Date: 6/9/13 12:26 PM

yes that would do the trick.
I compared my Jalie pattern to Style Arc again and saw the front Style Arc side seam pretty much straight up and down and front piece quite small. And although back Style Arc doesn't really curve OUT along hip area there is so much more "butt room" than Jalie. Not quite sure how they managed to do that. All in the "hook" angulations. its like the "stance" of SA is wider than Jalie leg stance.

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Karla Kizer
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Subject: Whats up with my side seams? Date: 6/10/13 6:19 AM

That seam looks real familiar to me and my DD, and results from the need for more room across the front of the thigh, at and just below crotch level. I mentally hung a weighted string from the top of your side seam, and it appears that the top lines up well with the side seam at the hem, but the front thigh is borrowing fabric from the back. However, that little detail has never prevent DD from spending a fortune on RTW jeans with that little anomalie, so you've created great-looking jeans that mimic RTW.
-- Edited on 6/10/13 6:22 AM --

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JTink
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Date: 6/10/13 8:05 AM

I see what Karla is seeing. The thigh needs more room.

Elizabeth made this
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Date: 6/10/13 11:12 AM

It's definitely an issue w/ the front thigh. How do I accommodate this?

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Mole Princess
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Date: 6/10/13 1:38 PM

You widen the front of the pants at the place where the seam is curving away from plumb. Measure the amount the seam is swinging off plumb and measure along the side seam to determine how far down it's swinging away the most. On your pattern, add that amount at that distance from the waist. Then taper to the original pattern several inches above and below that point--as many inches as it takes before the current pants return to a plumb side seam.

Your seam will then be plumb but the pants will be looser in back b/c of the extra room in front and may need to be adjusted in back at that time.


-- Edited on 6/10/13 1:39 PM --

Karla Kizer
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Date: 6/12/13 6:36 AM

I do something similar to this: The Sewing Divas thigh adjustment. I've found that using this method adds front thigh room and changes the angle of the CF to a bit more of a diagonal. I soften the lower front crotch curve a little - making it more of a slant than a distinct curve, and that adds a bit of width over the pelvic bone, something that those of us with "strong" front thighs often need, since our thigh prominence is controlling the front of our pants.....Darnitall. The extra width helps reduce the strain lines that we often have extending from the crotch toward the side seam, and that "trampoline" look that makes us think the front crotch is too long (when what we really need is more width in that area.)
-- Edited on 6/12/13 6:40 AM --

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



Sew Confused
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Date: 6/12/13 12:21 PM

Elizabeth, I'm curious about whether you have this same problem with the side seams in RTW jeans.

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

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