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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > removing princess seams to make a plain bodice

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removing princess seams to make a plain bodice
Need darts when changing from princess to one piece?
sewer859
sewer859
Advanced Beginner
Virginia USA
Member since 5/3/07
Posts: 16
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Date: 6/9/13 3:04 PM

I'm converting a princess seam back bodice (2 pattern pieces cut on the fold) to a 1 piece back bodice with a CB zipper. I've added the CB seam allowance for the zipper and taped the two princess seam back pieces together. Because of the princess seam, the back pieces 'bow' out and don't lay flat to trace. Do I just mash down the taped princess pattern pieces to trace around or do I need to release the pattern paper somewhere and add a dart? If I slash along the taped princess seam it starts to lay flat, but all I think that I'm accomplishing is putting the princess seam back in. I can't find another pattern that fits! Please help!

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 6/9/13 11:17 PM

The back bows out because of the shoulder darts and waist darts that were transfered into the princess seams. Do not just flatten the bodice, you have to cut a new dart and let it spread until the bodice lays flat

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PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 6/9/13 11:26 PM

Why?

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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California USA
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Date: 6/10/13 1:21 AM

Princess seams allow a nice close fit because they incorporate all the darts in the princess seams (shoulder, bust and waist) for both the front and the back. IHTH

arianamaniacs
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arianamaniacs  Friend of PR
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International AUSTRIA
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Date: 6/10/13 4:16 AM

You don't have to make the darts if you don't want to, but the fit may not be as close as you want, since most people have a slight forward curve in their backs. There are plenty of bodices that have no fitting other than the back zipper.

I would flatten the bodice as much as possible. Back seams don't usually have a ton of curve in them to compensate for.

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