Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Request for muslin critique ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Request for muslin critique
Colette Sorbetto
thefunimalist
thefunimalist
Member since 3/10/13
Posts: 23
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/12/13 8:36 PM

I'm working on the Colette Sorbetto top and having some fit issues. I'd greatly appreciate any advice!






I made some alterations to the pattern. My figure is narrow-backed, full-busted, and pear shaped. Based on my measurements, I cut a size 4 at the shoulders, did a 2.5" FBA, and used the size 10 waist and size 12 hip measurements at the front and back while keeping the length of a size 4.

Here's my beginner's opinion of what needs to be fixed: The biggest problem is the horizontal wrinkling at the lower back. Viewed from the side, the bottom edge appears to be riding up toward the back, so I think I need to add width to the back hip area rather than do a swayback adjustment. Can I just add width at the side seams?

I can tell the shoulders are a bit wide and the darts need some adjustment, but I'm not sure what the best way to fix them would be.

I'm a beginner at fitting garments so I'd appreciate all the feedback I can get! Thanks for reading.

Edit: I think I fixed the photos--let me know if you can't see them.
-- Edited on 6/12/13 8:38 PM --
-- Edited on 6/12/13 8:49 PM --

Sew Confused
star
Sew Confused  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 7/13/07
Posts: 2542
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/12/13 9:51 PM

You'll need to shorten the darts; I believe I shortened them by 1-3/4 inches. That's all I'm commenting on, because that's all I know for certain.

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8078
Login to reply to this post

In reply to thefunimalist <<
thumbsup 4 members like this.


Date: 6/12/13 11:01 PM

No, you need a sway back adjustment. This needs a cb seam added.
You also need to make a narrow back adjustment.
The dart needs to be shortened, but it also might look better if you rotate it to angle up from lower down the side to make a French dart which will help with the vertical folds in the front.
There seems to be a little too much length above the bust. Try pinning out the folds
The shoulders are a little too wide and too sloping.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

SandiMacD
star
SandiMacD  Friend of PR
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 2/8/09
Posts: 2223
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 6/13/13 7:14 AM

Make one change at a time or you will go crazy. I thought I was a pear shape until I took Barb Decker's plus size Craftsy class. I learned I am a box. If you look in the mirror I think you will see a straight line from shoulder to hip, not an A frame line. But hard to see with the blouse over hips.
I would start with the sway back adjustment. Search on PR- lots of help with what it is and how to make it.
Most say start at the top and work down. The shoulder seam angle and where it sets looks OK though. But it does go past your shoulder joint. To me that is more an arm hole adjustment and can wait.
Or you could start with the bust dart. It looks high and too big. I would place it lower and bring it to end about 2 inches from your bust apex and then look at it again.

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

SandiMacD
star
SandiMacD  Friend of PR
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 2/8/09
Posts: 2223
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/13/13 7:18 AM

Or you could narrow the bust dart you have snd leave it where it is. Then make another bust dart below that to take up the extra fabric and give shaping. I am not sure the top dart needs shortening, it just isn't able to do its job from that position. So it needs to be moved lower or be narrowed and get help from a second lower dart.

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

Marilly
Marilly
Advanced Beginner
OR USA
Member since 7/9/06
Posts: 696
Login to reply to this post

In reply to thefunimalist <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/13/13 9:00 PM

I think you need a bigger FBA and the kind that's the Y type that Palmer and Pletsch show in their newer Fit for Real People Book. I think your upper length may be okay, but it's hard to be sure as the horizontal wrinkles look like they are straining as the fullness in your upper bust cup is pushing up the fabric to get to a spot where there's enough circumference in the front.
The Y type of FBA is supposed to be for larger adjustments ( spreads over 1.5 ) and might be the worth a try. Unlike the standard FBA it has an additional cut line from the mid-shoulder to help make a smoother transition from smaller shoulders to ample busts, especially if you go down another size in the shoulders. This is what it looks like:
Y type FBA
By comparison, this is more typical FBA, you can see it only pops out the bust area:
Standard FBA,
I'm not sure about the back, but Nancy K suggestions make sense to me.
Shel

thefunimalist
thefunimalist
Member since 3/10/13
Posts: 23
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/14/13 0:48 AM

Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm playing around with my pattern and I'll post more photos when I've made some progress.

What are your opinions of the swayback adjustments that don't require a CB seam? There's one method shown here and another one at the end of this blog post. I tried the method in the first link on paper only and it gave me a weird looking shoulder slope even though I only removed 0.5". I might make a muslin of it to see what happens, though. There are some striped and patterned fabrics that I'd like to use for this top that would look best if I didn't have to add a CB seam, so it would be preferable if that could be avoided.

BettyMike
star
BettyMike  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
TX USA
Member since 2/12/04
Posts: 445

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/14/13 2:31 AM

In addition to a sway back adjustment, you may need a short waist alteration as well. I am extremely short waisted and that alteration is step #1 for me.

------
betty/mikie

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CO USA
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 581
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 6/14/13 3:48 PM

I agree, you need the Y FBA. This should lower the dart point which seems to me to be too high and long.

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CO USA
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 581
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/14/13 3:49 PM

oops! duplicate post!
-- Edited on 6/14/13 3:51 PM --

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Request for muslin critique

Merchants on PR
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket

Online Sewing Classes
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Fee: $34.00
(Regular $49.00)
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

BurdaStyle Magazine 12-2007-117 Blouse
photo
Review by Markie1 on 1/31/08
Read Review

Peek-A Boo Classic T-Strap Booties Digital Pattern ( Size 3-18 mos )
Peek-A Boo Classic T-Strap Booties Digital Pattern ( Size 3-18 mos )

Details
Price: $3.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

MariaDenmark Laura Lounge Digital Pattern
MariaDenmark Laura Lounge Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $5.20
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Other Mango Tango Mango Tango
photo
Review by jannw on 2/28/13
Read Review

Favorite Things Little Belle Skirts Pattern
Favorite Things Little Belle Skirts Pattern

Details
Price: $14.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sewing Workshop Daily News Bag Pattern
Sewing Workshop Daily News Bag Pattern

Details
Price: $12.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCalls 3830 Pattern ( Size 16-18-20-22 )
McCalls 3830 Pattern ( Size 16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $14.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Jalie 2908 Pattern
Jalie 2908 Pattern

Details
Price: $12.75
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN