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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Onionskin Top- armhole finish ?? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Onionskin Top- armhole finish ??
having some trouble
pittysmom

pittysmom
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TN USA
Member since 7/21/04
Posts: 144
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Date: 6/6/05 0:01 AM

Hi
I made this top KS 2845
and I made view A, the sleeveless tank with gathered neckline. I won't go into how I screwed up the neckline, I can probably fix that with the tips from other reviews on this top. My main problem is the armholes, they are turned and topstitched. I tried doing this, and my fabric being onionskin, it didn't want to press at all, so I used washaway wonder tape to hold it in place, then stitched it. What happened was a wavy, stretched out mess.

One person, Rhonda Noah, who reviewed this top said she turned and pressed the armholes before construction and that helped. Others mention using elastic, but I'm not sure how to do this. I have looked this up in the message boards, but I might not be looking in the right place.

I have another of these tops cut out, also in onionskin, and I want to try to forestall the gaping, stretched out armhole problem before it's too late. (Ripping tiny stitches out of onionskin is NOT FUN) How would one go about using elastic to stabilize these armholes? I do have some narrow elastic and I also have some clear elastic, which I have never used. So could someone give me a detailed idea of how to do this? Like Clear Elastic For Dummies version?? LOL
I apologize if this has already been covered, I just couldn't find anything that seemed relevant to this problem.

Thanks In Advance
Cheri who LOVES onionskin and is determined to make friends with it!!!
P.S. Is there a special needle I need to use for this? I have sharps and ballpoints.
-- Edited on 6/6/05 1:03 AM --
-- Edited on 6/6/05 1:06 AM --

NancyDaQ
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NancyDaQ
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NM USA
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Date: 6/6/05 8:27 AM

Onionskin can be pressed, no problem.

The best finish for turned and topstitched that I've found for onionskin is to use a double needle with wooly nylon hand wound onto the bobbin. I use a straight stitch with a length of 4.0 mm (yes, 4.0!).

I have also found that it can be helpful to put a stabilizer like solvy underneath. I just cut strips and place them underneath as I sew. It is easy to dissolve afterwards with water.

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pittysmom

pittysmom
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TN USA
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Date: 6/6/05 9:51 PM

Thanks Nan, I will try this, I think I have some wooly ntlon to match!
Cheri

NancyDaQ
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Date: 6/7/05 10:25 PM

Cheri, I was just looking at my notes and realized I didn't mention that you should also loosen the upper thread tension, too. HTH!

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Izzie
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Izzie
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GA USA
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Date: 6/14/05 3:41 PM

Cheri,
I like to use Steam A Seam 2 Lite for onionskin hems. It comes in 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch widths. I usually iron it in before I sew up the seams, leaving the seam allowances free. It is similar to your method of using the wash away tape, but the steam a seam stays in even after washing and gives a little body to the fabric.
Just be careful not to move the iron around too much when you press the hems, otherwise the fabric will stretch and you will get wavy hems like I did with THIS TOP.
I use a twin stretch needle with regular thread and I lighten up the pressure on the presser foot. Sometimes I get lazy and just use a single needle on the smallest zig zag setting.
HTH!
Tammy

tigger
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tigger
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AE USA
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Date: 6/14/05 4:15 PM

Yes I'm working on an onionskin top - Burda 8223 - at the moment and it's my first time really working with onionskin. I'm of the same opinion - that I love onionskin and am determined to make friends with it!

I feel your pain about unpicking stitches from onionskin being NO fun as I have spent a good deal of the evening doing just that! Luckily it hasn't made a mess yet but this is a real learning experience.

Any tips you can give on onionskin and what works best would be appreicated - twin needle and Steam a Seam 2 Lite are now on my remember to use and get some list! (if that makes sense)

I'm already looking at my next purchase from EOS so wish me luck....

tigger

Deb Bee
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Deb Bee
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CA USA
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Date: 6/14/05 4:46 PM

With onionskin, I learned the hard way that is not wise to mark notches with a clip. Even a tiny one will stretch waaaay out. I marked a V neck that way and had to rescue it by stitching a small folded piece of the same fabric on the wrong side to conserve the shape of the neckline. Luckily it worked just fine -but next time you can guarantee I will use a traditionally cut notch, or better yet, a fabric tack in a contrasting color.

pittysmom

pittysmom
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TN USA
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Posts: 144
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Date: 6/14/05 11:49 PM

DUH....What's a fabric tack? like tailors tacks?

Cheri
who is NEVER afraid to ask a dumb question...

NancyDaQ
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In reply to Deb Bee


Date: 6/15/05 7:14 AM

I almost never mark notches with clips when sewing knitwear. Because of the narrower seam allowances used on knits, there's just too much opportunity for a problem.

It's simple enough just to cut a traditional notch (I cut with a rotary cutter and notch, or to mark the notch with chalk or a fabric marker in the seam allowance.

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