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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > How to do a pattern adjustment when pencil skirt is too short in the back ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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How to do a pattern adjustment when pencil skirt is too short in the back
CertKAB
CertKAB
Intermediate
Missouri USA
Member since 6/22/13
Posts: 4
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Date: 6/22/13 2:17 AM

I am doing a wedding dress with a lace border overlay over a pencil skirt. The front is low and the back dips deeply to the waist. It has spaghetti straps. I've made 3 practice dresses and all come out too short in the back. I know this is a problem for plus sized women, but this bride is very slim. I have to get this right because the lace overlay has a border which obviously cannot be hemmed and I don't know how to correct this before I cut it out. I've tried enlarging the hips and lengthening the shoulder straps to no avail. Can you help me?

wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 7/8/11
Posts: 364
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Date: 6/22/13 2:51 AM

I'm not sure if the issue with your bride's dress might be a fuller bottom, but I know I have a problem with my skirts being shorter in the back, and have found the following tutorial by Julia Bobbin to be helpful

Julia Bobbin's Full Butt Adjustment

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Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

CertKAB
CertKAB
Intermediate
Missouri USA
Member since 6/22/13
Posts: 4
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Date: 6/22/13 1:33 PM

Thank you so much for this help. While lying away in bed, I did wonder if making a slash from the center back to the side seam and spreading the pattern apart "might" be a solution. This tutorial makes me feel more confident about my idea. On this dress, I've had to take the hips in at the side seams at every fitting. Do you think I might throw something off if I only made the horizontal adjustment? Thanks, again!

wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 7/8/11
Posts: 364
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Date: 6/22/13 11:54 PM

If you have already invested the time to make three practice dresses, I would think that trying it with just the horizontal adjustment would be worth it if you believe that the extra vertical space is not needed. Keep in mind though, that this adjustment is an equivelant to a Full Bust Adjustment, in that you generally need extra fabric both ways to accomodate the extra.
At worst if it doesn't solve the issue, you will be making two more practice dresses instead of one
-- Edited on 6/22/13 11:58 PM --

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Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

CertKAB
CertKAB
Intermediate
Missouri USA
Member since 6/22/13
Posts: 4
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Date: 6/24/13 1:56 AM

Thanks, Wendy. I often have to do the full bust alteration on my own clothes and understand how, in that case, I do need extra in both directions. The bridal pattern started out with a full flared skirt which I've nipped away to a straight skirt to acommodate border scalloped lace. (The bride wanted a straight skirt from the beginning.) Since I keep taking it in, something seems a little off to add more back on. I redid the pattern last night just adding the extra length in the back and feel hopeful about this. I do feel a "little" unsure about not adding in both directions. I think I'm going to have to make a 4th practice dress, but I think this time I will actually make it out of muslin. The other dresses were made out of inexpensive fashion fabric. This time, the fit is all I care about. Thanks for you help in walking me through this. You are helping me think. I will let you know how it all works out.

CertKAB
CertKAB
Intermediate
Missouri USA
Member since 6/22/13
Posts: 4
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Date: 8/20/13 1:46 AM

Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. The wedding dress was a great success and I want to post an image for you, but I'm not sure I can figure this out.

I was simply trying to add a jpeg picture off my computer, but it wouldn't allow it. There is a picture on Facebook and the link is listed above. I have no idea if this will work or not. I hope you can see it.

I did have to make some adjustments in the upper part of the pattern after I spread the center back horizontally about an inch. It did throw off the grain of the bodice, but I was able to correct it. Thanks again for your help.
Kathy

PS After I looked at the preview of my post, it doesn't appear that the picture or link came through. Oh well, I tried.

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