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Forum > Fitting Woes > Narrow, sloping and forward shoulders ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Narrow, sloping and forward shoulders
Order to do these pattern adjustments?
Sewandwrite
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Sewandwrite  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/24/13 7:05 PM

I have narrow shoulders that are also a little sloping. And yes, decades of computer work has led to forward shoulders.

In what order do I do these adjustments on a pattern? Sandra Betzina's book Fast Fit says to do the narrow then the sloping adjustment. But she doesn't talk about a forward shoulder adjustment.

I'd also appreciate any suggestions on doing a forward shoulder adjustment on a front that narrows just below the pattern's shoulder seam.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<
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Date: 6/24/13 7:09 PM

I'd do it this way (as I've done it this way): Narrow, the sloping, then forward shoulders. Look at the shoulder seam as being a balance beam. You want the beam to be a certain length (narrow), then you want it to be a certain tilt on the end for your final cast off (sloping) and finally, you want the beam wide enough to support you (forward). Go with the straight lines first (narrow and sloping) and then deal with the curves (forward) HTH

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sewme47
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sewme47
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Date: 6/24/13 7:27 PM

Yep, what Miss Fairchild says! I always do 1. narrow, 2. sloping, 3. forward. I make the forward adjustment on most patterns by leaving the end of the shoulder seam near the neck edge stationary and moving the other end forward by about 3/8".

However, every pattern is different, so I have to muslin everything! Sometimes the whole shoulder seam needs to go forward. And be aware that the sleeve will also need to be adjusted so that the shoulder dot on the sleeve meets the shoulder seam. Some just move the dot forward, but I prefer Louise Cutting's method ...beyond my ability to describe, but she demonstrates on one of the Threads DVD's.

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Date: 6/24/13 7:27 PM

I'm in agreement with Miss Fairchild

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Sewandwrite
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 6/25/13 1:17 PM

Thanks for this clarity, Miss Fairchild!

The linear explanation -- narrow then sloping then forward -- followed by the reasoning is great.

Thanks everyone for their responses.

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