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Forum > Fitting Woes > Deepening the yoke on men's shirts ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Deepening the yoke on men's shirts
LiinSd
LiinSd
Member since 6/12/12
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Date: 6/25/13 6:20 PM

folks,

I'd like to ask about thoughts with this design feature; a deeper yoke that extends down a third (almost ) on the back rather than current yokes which are very shallow. I *think* that this would be a better fit since many of the RTW shirts with the side or the single center pleats just bulge open and look unsightly.

Has anyone tried this (ala Sean Connery in Marnie)? What do you think?

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to LiinSd <<


Date: 6/25/13 8:51 PM

The purpose of the pleat in the CB of a yoke is to allow more fabric for movement of the arms. If you can get away with somehow making the arms able to move, why not try it? But chances are, you'd have to put a dart at the neck, or make the back really wide.

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Pam~Off The Cuff~
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Subject: Deepening the yoke on mens shirts Date: 6/26/13 10:04 AM

I draft many of my original shirt Designs without back pleats of any kind. I add movement ease by shaping the yoke and upper back seam...this is very common.

A back Yoke is *usually* no lower/longer/larger than 1/4 of the total back neck to waist measurement...otherwise the proportions look unbalanced. If a deeper yoke is wanted for more ease of movement or to accommodate sloping or very muscular shoulders, it is deepened in FRONT. See one of many of my Shirt designs with that feature Here
-- Edited on 6/26/13 10:09 AM --

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~Pam

Pamela Erny
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carolynw
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In reply to Pam~Off The Cuff~ <<


Date: 6/26/13 1:08 PM

Pam maybe you can help me - I recently made a jacket for my husband - corduroy lined with a specialty lining from EOS for warmth without bulk.

The jacket looks wonderful but it somehow hangs off below the shoulders - he has broad shoulders rounding to the front - does not stand really straight so shoulders are not level but I do not see this happening with his RTW.

If I can post a photo may explain better what the problem is - am about to make one out of really good ultra suede and do not want to see this happening.

Pam~Off The Cuff~
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In reply to carolynw <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/26/13 4:29 PM

Hi Carolyn....

If you don't see this with his RTW garments....it is probably because the angle of the shoulder-slope is different between your jacket pattern and the angle of the slope in his RTW garments.

I am unable to answer questions in greater detail because I am under contract and have publishing deadlines to meet.

Here is a wonderful multi-part article from Bren of Brensan Designs that covers just about every possible shirt alteration....should help with jacket fitting as well. Her article Starts HERE
....and then continues HERE
....and you'll see the links to the rest of her series at the end of each part. Hope it helps!

------
~Pam

Pamela Erny
OFF THE CUFF ~Style~
www.Off-The-Cuff-Style.blogspot.com
and My Store...
www.FashionSewingSupply.com !

Debbie Lancaster
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In reply to Pam~Off The Cuff~ <<


Date: 6/27/13 3:12 PM

Quote: Pam~Off The Cuff~
I am unable to answer questions in greater detail because I am under contract and have publishing deadlines to meet.

Oh, man! I'll be haunting your blog until you tell us what you're publishing!

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Debbie

carolynw
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In reply to Pam~Off The Cuff~ <<


Date: 6/27/13 5:54 PM

Thanks so much - had wondered if there would be a few problems with your answering and so much appreciate the leads you have given me.

Have used the Brensan shirt patterns - wonderful drafting and terrific instructions

Many thanks again

blue mooney
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster <<


Date: 6/27/13 8:15 PM

Quote: Debbie Lancaster
[quote] I am unable to answer questions in greater detail because I am under contract and have publishing deadlines to meet.

Oh, man! I'll be haunting your blog until you tell us what you're publishing![/quote]
Got my attention, too!!

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carolynw
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster <<


Date: 6/28/13 11:08 AM

You got me too!! Stalkers are we?

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