Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Where to start with choosing pattern sizes

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Where to start with choosing pattern sizes
Unsure if I should always assume a FBA is required
Mishic
Mishic
Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/19/13
Posts: 2
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/26/13 2:41 AM

Hi all,

I joined about a month ago and have mainly been lurking in that time, soaking up all the fantastic advice here on the forums and in the reviews. I've bought quite a few patterns, and after finishing my first one (New Look 6557), I'm now looking to start making some of the others. However, I'm finding that I don't quite know where to start in terms of choosing the right size to cut. I'm quite large busted, but I think I have a narrow back (I normally wear a 30E bra). When I took my measurements, I was a 32" upper bust, with a 35" full bust. According to the pattern sizing for Simplicity/New Look, this means I should cut a 12 in the bust.

Should I always start with this and adjust from there, or would I be better to always start with a 10 (using my upper bust measurement) and always assume that I will need an FBA? (I think the difference between my two measurements means that I need a 'C' cup FBA?)

I'm happy to make test muslins etc as required, but I'd like to get as close to the right size as possible from the start. The patterns I have so far are all by Simplicity, New Look and Burda.

Thanks very much!
Michelle

SquishSews
star
SquishSews  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Member since 1/18/09
Posts: 442
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/26/13 6:38 AM

I think I read that the big 4 patterns are sized for B cups, so yes, you would generally need an FBA. However - Burda, is different - drafted by a German company. You can try that pattern by checking your measurements and drawling lines between the sizes as indicated by your measurements! The first Burda I did fit nearly perfectly just doing that (I probably need to take in a little at the back neck but it's done and I wear it as is).

Many threads here suggest fitting by the upper bust size as there and shoulders ate tough to fit. Some of the big 4 (sorry, if you're new you might not know - Simplicity, Vogue, McCall's, Butterick) do now have bust sizing options available, with different pattern pieces to choose, so they are worth checking out too, if you don't feel like always doing the FBA.

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 5729
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Mishic <<


Date: 6/26/13 9:14 AM

I just saw the dress you made. Lovely. Do you remember how you chose the size for the dress? I'm a 34DDD. That probably equals out to about the same thing you are in cup size. I start with a 10 at the neck and shoulders(I'm 34 upper bust) and then morph out to a 12 from the armholes down. I then do a 1 inch FBA. I do this with all my blouses, dresses, jackets. Anything that fits over the bust. The patterns with cup size choices that Squish mentioned, are also nice. I just cut my usual sizes and use the cup piece indicated(10 at the neck and shoulders and 12 from shoulder down). I also have to make a narrow/forward shoulder adjustment and raise the waist line in all my things. You have a wonderfully long torso

PattiAnnJ
star
PattiAnnJ
Advanced
OH USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 6873
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Mishic <<


Date: 6/26/13 10:59 AM

You should do what is right for the fit you need. Consider the rest of your body measurements and then work in the adjustment needed for the fuller bust.

If the 10 works well for the waist and hips, then start there.

If you are sewing a top only, then you may want the larger pattern size if the shoulders and armscye are not too large.

Test and decide which size requires the fewer adjustments and works best for you overall.


------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

DonnaH
star
DonnaH
Intermediate
TX
Member since 10/1/03
Posts: 1042
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/26/13 12:14 PM

I agree w/ Squish - Burda is different. In fact you can get their measurement/size guide online (I google for it frequently). It gives many measurements, not just hip/waist/bust.

Also, something not mentioned here. Read the reviews (and when finished, write some, letting others know what adjustments you did - even if it doesn't work out). If the review says "I did my usually FBA, but didn't really need it" or "the pattern works better when using the actual bust measurement and doing a narrow shoulder adjustment" - then you can try that first.

Mishic
Mishic
Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/19/13
Posts: 2
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 6/26/13 5:12 PM

Thanks very much for the advice, all - it's been super useful!

When I made New Look 6557, I tried a test muslin first just using the sizing on the back of the envelope. It turned out too big everywhere, but other reviews had indicated that it was a pattern that ran big.

Fitting the bodice turned into a bit of trial and error by pinning bits of the muslin. I realised that in addition to being too wide at the side seams, it was also gaping at both arms, so I tried folding in a dart there. This seemed to work well for the fit. I then retraced the pattern going down a size everywhere on the bodice except the armscye curve and copied in the dart position from my test dress.

As the dress only had narrow shoulder straps and a low cut back, there wasn't really any fitting issues in the shoulder/back area. The patterns I'd like to try next have more fabric in this area, and I just found myself a bit paralysed over the best place to start my garments from.

It sounds like I should try cutting a 10 in the shoulder/upper bust, and then grade out to a 12 for the bust/waist, adding in a 1 inch FBA, at least for my Simplicity/New Look patterns?

When I come to using my Burda patterns, I'll look up Burda's fitting chart and maybe try cutting the pattern according to the envelope and see how I get on.

diane s
star
diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4529
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/30/13 12:14 PM

When you by a pattern by your bust, you're basically going for a good fit through the neck/shoulders. The full bust adjustment may not be the same on different patterns. Style, ease and fabric selection make those a variable. I also start with a size 10, grading out to a 14. My fba has been anywhere from nothing to 1 inch.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

BuckeyeSandy
BuckeyeSandy
Intermediate
MD USA
Member since 7/9/13
Posts: 3
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/14/13 4:40 PM

I am also a small frame with a generous busom (thanks mom and grandmas). I use the high bust to determine the pattern to start out with, before making alterations.

I am in the process of making new slopers for myself, since I am coming back to sewing for myself after a few years, and a few pounds. I am tired of buying clothing where the fullness (to me) is closer to my neck, than where my bust-line is at present.

So far, no alterations needed for the back pieces or the shoulders.

Good luck.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8083
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Mishic <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/14/13 8:52 PM

If your full bust is more than 2" larger than your upper bust measurement, and yours is, than you need an fba. Choose your size by your upper bust measurement and make an fba.




------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

kayco
kayco  Friend of PR
Beginner
CA USA
Member since 6/3/12
Posts: 223
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/19/13 7:10 PM

Am I right that kwik sew pattern sizes are based on full bust measure and all sizes are not designed for B cup. Something like medium is C cup, large D cup etc? I'm not sure that this is true or not.

------
Palace - Babylock Ovation - She makes me feel like a Princess
Cricket - Bernina Artista 730e - Steady, Smart and Sweet
Renee - Berina 1150MDA - My Tiny Dancer

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Where to start with choosing pattern sizes

Merchants on PR
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Leather 101
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Leather 101

Online Sewing Classes
Fit the Tee to a T
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Fit the Tee to a T

Au Bonheur des Petites Mains 20013
photo
Review by Noile on 12/5/10
Read Review

Peek-A Boo Sweetheart Halter Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -12 years )
Peek-A Boo Sweetheart Halter Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -12 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S School Bus T-Shirt Digital Pattern (6m-4)
Oliver + S School Bus T-Shirt Digital Pattern (6m-4)

Details
Price: $8.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3045
photo
Review by julesberry on 1/9/06
Read Review

Christine Jonson BaseWear One - Leggings, Top and Yoga Bodysuit
Christine Jonson BaseWear One - Leggings, Top and Yoga Bodysuit

Details
Price: $18.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

You Sew Girl Beret Pattern
You Sew Girl Beret Pattern

Details
Price: $15.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue 1353 Pattern ( Size 8-10-12-14-16 )
Vogue 1353 Pattern ( Size 8-10-12-14-16 )

Details
Price: $32.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 1446 Pattern ( Size 18W-20W-22W-24W )
Simplicity 1446 Pattern ( Size 18W-20W-22W-24W )

Details
Price: $17.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN