SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Where to start with choosing pattern sizes

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Where to start with choosing pattern sizes
Unsure if I should always assume a FBA is required
Mishic
Mishic
Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/19/13
Posts: 2
Send Message

      



Date: 6/26/13 2:41 AM

Hi all,

I joined about a month ago and have mainly been lurking in that time, soaking up all the fantastic advice here on the forums and in the reviews. I've bought quite a few patterns, and after finishing my first one (New Look 6557), I'm now looking to start making some of the others. However, I'm finding that I don't quite know where to start in terms of choosing the right size to cut. I'm quite large busted, but I think I have a narrow back (I normally wear a 30E bra). When I took my measurements, I was a 32" upper bust, with a 35" full bust. According to the pattern sizing for Simplicity/New Look, this means I should cut a 12 in the bust.

Should I always start with this and adjust from there, or would I be better to always start with a 10 (using my upper bust measurement) and always assume that I will need an FBA? (I think the difference between my two measurements means that I need a 'C' cup FBA?)

I'm happy to make test muslins etc as required, but I'd like to get as close to the right size as possible from the start. The patterns I have so far are all by Simplicity, New Look and Burda.

Thanks very much!
Michelle

SquishSews
star
SquishSews  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Member since 1/18/09
Posts: 442
Send Message

      



Date: 6/26/13 6:38 AM

I think I read that the big 4 patterns are sized for B cups, so yes, you would generally need an FBA. However - Burda, is different - drafted by a German company. You can try that pattern by checking your measurements and drawling lines between the sizes as indicated by your measurements! The first Burda I did fit nearly perfectly just doing that (I probably need to take in a little at the back neck but it's done and I wear it as is).

Many threads here suggest fitting by the upper bust size as there and shoulders ate tough to fit. Some of the big 4 (sorry, if you're new you might not know - Simplicity, Vogue, McCall's, Butterick) do now have bust sizing options available, with different pattern pieces to choose, so they are worth checking out too, if you don't feel like always doing the FBA.

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 6118
Send Message

      



In reply to Mishic <<


Date: 6/26/13 9:14 AM

I just saw the dress you made. Lovely. Do you remember how you chose the size for the dress? I'm a 34DDD. That probably equals out to about the same thing you are in cup size. I start with a 10 at the neck and shoulders(I'm 34 upper bust) and then morph out to a 12 from the armholes down. I then do a 1 inch FBA. I do this with all my blouses, dresses, jackets. Anything that fits over the bust. The patterns with cup size choices that Squish mentioned, are also nice. I just cut my usual sizes and use the cup piece indicated(10 at the neck and shoulders and 12 from shoulder down). I also have to make a narrow/forward shoulder adjustment and raise the waist line in all my things. You have a wonderfully long torso

PattiAnnJ
star
PattiAnnJ
Advanced
USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 7438
Send Message

      



In reply to Mishic <<


Date: 6/26/13 10:59 AM

You should do what is right for the fit you need. Consider the rest of your body measurements and then work in the adjustment needed for the fuller bust.

If the 10 works well for the waist and hips, then start there.

If you are sewing a top only, then you may want the larger pattern size if the shoulders and armscye are not too large.

Test and decide which size requires the fewer adjustments and works best for you overall.


------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

DonnaH
star
DonnaH
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 10/1/03
Posts: 1270
Send Message

      



Date: 6/26/13 12:14 PM

I agree w/ Squish - Burda is different. In fact you can get their measurement/size guide online (I google for it frequently). It gives many measurements, not just hip/waist/bust.

Also, something not mentioned here. Read the reviews (and when finished, write some, letting others know what adjustments you did - even if it doesn't work out). If the review says "I did my usually FBA, but didn't really need it" or "the pattern works better when using the actual bust measurement and doing a narrow shoulder adjustment" - then you can try that first.

Mishic
Mishic
Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/19/13
Posts: 2
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 6/26/13 5:12 PM

Thanks very much for the advice, all - it's been super useful!

When I made New Look 6557, I tried a test muslin first just using the sizing on the back of the envelope. It turned out too big everywhere, but other reviews had indicated that it was a pattern that ran big.

Fitting the bodice turned into a bit of trial and error by pinning bits of the muslin. I realised that in addition to being too wide at the side seams, it was also gaping at both arms, so I tried folding in a dart there. This seemed to work well for the fit. I then retraced the pattern going down a size everywhere on the bodice except the armscye curve and copied in the dart position from my test dress.

As the dress only had narrow shoulder straps and a low cut back, there wasn't really any fitting issues in the shoulder/back area. The patterns I'd like to try next have more fabric in this area, and I just found myself a bit paralysed over the best place to start my garments from.

It sounds like I should try cutting a 10 in the shoulder/upper bust, and then grade out to a 12 for the bust/waist, adding in a 1 inch FBA, at least for my Simplicity/New Look patterns?

When I come to using my Burda patterns, I'll look up Burda's fitting chart and maybe try cutting the pattern according to the envelope and see how I get on.

diane s
star
diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Oregon USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4802
Send Message

      



Date: 6/30/13 12:14 PM

When you by a pattern by your bust, you're basically going for a good fit through the neck/shoulders. The full bust adjustment may not be the same on different patterns. Style, ease and fabric selection make those a variable. I also start with a size 10, grading out to a 14. My fba has been anywhere from nothing to 1 inch.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

BuckeyeSandy
BuckeyeSandy
Intermediate
Maryland USA
Member since 7/9/13
Posts: 3
Send Message

      



Date: 7/14/13 4:40 PM

I am also a small frame with a generous busom (thanks mom and grandmas). I use the high bust to determine the pattern to start out with, before making alterations.

I am in the process of making new slopers for myself, since I am coming back to sewing for myself after a few years, and a few pounds. I am tired of buying clothing where the fullness (to me) is closer to my neck, than where my bust-line is at present.

So far, no alterations needed for the back pieces or the shoulders.

Good luck.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8272
Send Message

      



In reply to Mishic <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/14/13 8:52 PM

If your full bust is more than 2" larger than your upper bust measurement, and yours is, than you need an fba. Choose your size by your upper bust measurement and make an fba.




------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

kayco
kayco  Friend of PR
Beginner
California USA
Member since 6/3/12
Posts: 259
Send Message

      



Date: 7/19/13 7:10 PM

Am I right that kwik sew pattern sizes are based on full bust measure and all sizes are not designed for B cup. Something like medium is C cup, large D cup etc? I'm not sure that this is true or not.

------
Palace - Babylock Ovation - She makes me feel like a Princess
Cricket - Bernina Artista 730e - Steady, Smart and Sweet
Renee - Berina 1150MDA - My Tiny Dancer

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Where to start with choosing pattern sizes

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets

Register

The Contemporary Couture Jacket
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

Register

Sewn Square One Small Change Pattern

Sewn Square One Small Change Pattern

Buy Now
Christine Jonson Travel Trio One

Christine Jonson Travel Trio One

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.