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Skirt center back seam
Should it be straight?
cimmanon
cimmanon
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Member since 1/2/05
Posts: 37
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Date: 7/8/13 3:44 PM

I'm working through the fitting process on a basic pencil skirt pattern that you might find thrown in with a jacket or blouse pattern. I've noticed that pretty much all pencil skirt patterns have a center back seam that's straight with the grain. However, some dress patterns (including ones with princess seams), have a curved center back seam below the natural waist.

Is there a practical reason for this difference? I ask because I'm concerned that I may need to have a curved center back seam in addition to longer than average darts (related to a "protruding derriere" adjustment: http://www.the-tailoress.com/alteringskirt.html). Should I try to get the seam straight if I can for reasons other than nicer looking stripes/plaids?
-- Edited on 7/8/13 4:06 PM --

Mole Princess
Mole Princess
Member since 4/17/12
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Date: 7/8/13 4:54 PM

You don't absolutely have to have the part above the hipline on grain, since jeans aren't, and as you say, some dresses don't. But it is customary and it should be possible, too. If you find that you have seams not on grain above the hip this is functioning as an additional dart in addition to the two or four that look like darts. If you want the CB seam on grain then you have to move that CB "dartoid" shaping into the regular darts. There are people here who know better than I do how to do that in this case.

Of course, that will make those darts bigger and depending on your shape and just how extra shapely your bottom is, you may find you like it better as is and so long as you are working with a fabric where the pattern won't look wrong off grain above the hip, you'll be okay.

If you don't get answers I'd suggest trying again w/ a subject line like "how to rotate center back seam 'dart' into the regular darts."

Happy researching!

Mole Princess
Mole Princess
Member since 4/17/12
Posts: 266
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Date: 7/8/13 4:55 PM

P.S. If you keep the diagonal then just stabilize your seam well so you don't have any stretching there.

DonnaH
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DonnaH
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TX
Member since 10/1/03
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Date: 7/8/13 5:14 PM

As MP alluded to, I believe it is because skirts will have more strain on the seam at the waist than dresses, and a straight grain seam is more stable. But if you do as she suggests and stabilize, you can put some of the "dartness" into that seam.

BJ1400
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BJ1400
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WV USA
Member since 10/29/03
Posts: 2640
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In reply to cimmanon <<


Date: 7/8/13 9:31 PM

Here's an adjustment to a skirt back for a protruding derriere:



------
Beverly.

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