Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Seeking advice on armhole/shoulder to program for success ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Seeking advice on armhole/shoulder to program for success
Please hold my hand on this one
Sewandwrite
star
Sewandwrite
Advanced Beginner
MD USA
Member since 5/16/08
Posts: 815
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 7/9/13 7:59 PM

Last night, I paid to have the second muslin ofSimplicity 2648 pin fitted. I am really, really trying to do everything I can to ensure success on this project and I wasn't going to let the lack of a fitting buddy stymie me.

At the very end of the fitting, I fretted over whether I needed to do a narrow shoulder adjustment -- about 1/4 inch. (After muslin #1, I had concluded I didn't really need it, but that was before I did other adjustments.)

The lovely, experienced costumer who pinned me up suggested I simply shave off 1/4 inch from the armhole and sleeve. She even marked this change on my pattern for me.

But simply cutting back the armhole and sleeve is an anathema to what I've read about shoulder adjustments. I am stuck.

Please weigh in, oh Oracles of PR.

Does it really matter if I trim off this 1/4"? Or will doing a narrow shoulder adjustment adjustment for 1/4" lead to a better end product?

I've implemented the 1/4" cut on muslin #2 to check it out -- but I can't tell. The armhole does not seem too low. But there is no zipper in the muslin and no one to pin me, so I can't really see how this affects the fit.

KiwiWendy
starstarstar
KiwiWendy
Advanced
AUSTRALIA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 2704
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/9/13 8:05 PM

I shave off approx 5/8ths of an inch every time and it works for me. My shoulders are slightly square as well as narrow, so doing a narrow shoulder adjustment isn't right for me.

What works is what counts!

I don't quite understand what you mean by saying 'low' in the 2nd version. Do you mean the underarm part of the armscye or the garment shoulder overhanging your physical shoulder into the arm area?

------
Sydney, Australia

Sewandwrite
star
Sewandwrite
Advanced Beginner
MD USA
Member since 5/16/08
Posts: 815
Login to reply to this post

In reply to KiwiWendy <<


Date: 7/9/13 8:20 PM

Quote: KiwiWendy

What works is what counts!



I don't quite understand what you mean by saying 'low' in the 2nd version. Do you mean the underarm part of the armscye or the garment shoulder overhanging your physical shoulder into the arm area?

Low -- means the underarm part of the armscye. I don't think my bra band was visible.

My sister, who lives 2,700 miles from me, recommended I quickly install a cheap zipper and try it on. Because as you point out, what works is what counts!
Sewandwrite
star
Sewandwrite
Advanced Beginner
MD USA
Member since 5/16/08
Posts: 815
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 7/9/13 9:31 PM

Zipper insertion brought up a new issue that didn't appear in muslin pinning: the back neck gapes. At least two other PR reviewers of this pattern had the same problem. Will take care of that before cutting.

I decided that trimming the 1/4" off the armscye is definitely is needed to get the sleeve in the right place. But the trimming of the armscye and sleeve head -- combined with the forward shoulder adjustment -- made the front sleeve pleat meet the bodice right at the shoulder seam. It it looks weird. I am disappointed -- I wanted sleeves and can't fathom how to adjust them so the pleats fall evenly to the front and back. Ah, for a simpler sleeve!

I felt so positive about the fitting last night. Now, I'm really confused and wonder if it was a waste of money and time. I did so hope for good results.

simplystitches
simplystitches
NY USA
Member since 2/12/06
Posts: 1106
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 7/9/13 10:01 PM

How did she/you do the forward shoulder adjustment? The sleeve markings also change when this is done so the pleat shouldn't be right at the seam.

Debbie

goodworks1
star
goodworks1  Friend of PR
Advanced
IL USA
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3621
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/9/13 10:24 PM

Move the pleat to wherever you want it. Or move the shoulder seam back. You're in charge.

------
blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Sewandwrite
star
Sewandwrite
Advanced Beginner
MD USA
Member since 5/16/08
Posts: 815
Login to reply to this post

In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 7/9/13 10:24 PM

Hi Debbie --

I did the FS adjustment. I know the "dot" at the front of the sleeve should move forward too by the same amount as the adjustment on the bodice pieces. But that would make the underarm seam not match up with the side seam. Do I need to cut off part of the back of the sleeve and tape it to the front at the underarm?

KiwiWendy
starstarstar
KiwiWendy
Advanced
AUSTRALIA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 2704
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 7/9/13 11:32 PM

Quote: Sewandwrite
But that would make the underarm seam not match up with the side seam. Do I need to cut off part of the back of the sleeve and tape it to the front at the underarm?

You can do that, or you can ignore the fact they don't line up. Whatever works for you .... how many people are going to see that part of the seam?

------
Sydney, Australia

simplystitches
simplystitches
NY USA
Member since 2/12/06
Posts: 1106
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 7/10/13 0:30 AM

It depends on the way that the forward shoulder was done. If you removed from the front and added to the back the shoulder dot gets moved forward. That doesn't affect where the seam is at the underarm. It still lines up. All you're changing is the top of the sleeve markings. If that is the way that you did the alteration you would also move the shoulder pleats forward on the sleeve the same amount. Then they won't land at the shoulder seam. HTH

If you think it through it's a natural progression it's forward shoulder=forward dot=forward pleat. Does that make sense?


Debbie

diane s
star
diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4529
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 2 members like this.
Date: 7/10/13 1:24 AM

When I make a narrow shoulder adjustment, I leave the sleeve alone and only move in the shoulder seam on the the bodice.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Seeking advice on armhole/shoulder to program for success

Merchants on PR
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Blueprints to Blue Jeans
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Blueprints to Blue Jeans

Online Sewing Classes
Restyling with Exposed Zippers
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Restyling with Exposed Zippers

New Look 6774
photo
Review by magsfs on 9/9/08
Read Review

You Sew Girl Laptop Bag Pattern
You Sew Girl Laptop Bag Pattern

Details
Price: $22.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Favorite Things Eco Market Tote Pattern
Favorite Things Eco Market Tote Pattern

Details
Price: $14.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Liesl + Co. Everyday skirt Digital Pattern
Liesl + Co. Everyday skirt Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $12.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Megan Nielsen Tania Culottes Digital Pattern
Megan Nielsen Tania Culottes Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $12.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sew Much Ado Skipper Top Skipper Top
photo
Review by MayenDesig... on 10/4/13
Read Review

Burda 8061 Pattern
Burda 8061 Pattern

Details
Price: $11.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue 2842 Pattern ( Size 18-20-22 )
Vogue 2842 Pattern ( Size 18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $27.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN