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Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Need advice!!! ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Need advice!!!
Moving zip and boning...
Terri A
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Terri A  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/16/13 7:23 PM

If anyone can advise me, I would greatly appreciate it
My project is five bridal party dresses with modified sweetheart necklines and halter straps. It requires boning 3/8" featherweight.

The bodice has side front and back princess seams attached to a full circle skirt.

The pattern calls for a back zipper and boning casings in the lining in each seam around the bodice except the back where the zip is inserted.

I want to change the zipper to an invisible zip and move it to the side instead. Does this pose a problem for the boning that should be there and should I add boning to the back seam that then no longer has a zipper?

As a side question:
Is the 3/8" featherweight adequate or should it be otherwise?

Thank you so much :)

Ignoring the envelope styling the view is A on S1606

carry
carry
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Date: 7/16/13 9:15 PM

I can see why you'd want to move the zip-the back is pretty.I f you are worried about the boning being unbalanced on the zipper side,you could move the casing front or back-wise a bit for the side seams.But really with straps you don't need a lot of boning support as you would in a strapless. Ii'd be tempted to just do the front bodice and maybe 1/2 in. away from the side seams towards the back and a waistline stay ribbon to keep it snug to the waist. If you did view A [instead of the under bodice in C[ with the darts] which has the panels in the back you could bone those seams for the support in the back. carry

Terri A
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In reply to carry <<


Date: 7/16/13 10:37 PM

OK! Thanks so much. I was considering the waist-stay so that seconds the motion on that one :)
Then just sew the casing in where I want in the lining, even though not in a seam allowance?
I've done maybe oh... maybe 10 wedding garments of one kind or another (but it's been a while and not all had boning) as I have been saying no no no to requests lately.

In this case I have five to do.

stirwatersblue
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Date: 7/17/13 0:26 AM

I think the featherweight should be fine; the boning is really there for structure (keeping the lines of the garment from crumpling during wear) and not for supporting the body underneath. And if the princess seams are to be boned, you'll need the featherweight for the curves.

I go back and forth with boning the backs of my gowns; sometimes I do, sometimes not... and I don't really seem to see much difference. You might see what undergarments they'll be wearing, and then base it individually from there. (Eg, I'm pretty busty, and if I were planning to wear my best Goddess longline bra, I wouldn't need additional boning in the gown. If I had any concerns about a smooth line, however, I'd add it. It's not much of an added step if you decide to do it.)

------
~Gem in the prairie

Terri A
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 7/17/13 0:46 AM

Good point! i plan to meet with the girls this weekend and discuss underwear and get measurements etc...

The girls range all over in size, from A cup to DD which is why I thought princess seams in the bodice would help my case with fit.

It sounds like featherweight is the right choice then.

Goddess bra!? I think I need to buy me one of those :)

carry
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Date: 7/17/13 6:08 PM

The point I was making about the boning
in the the back is that if you use the pattern pieces with the seams instead of the darts you can support the back-which isn't supported by the straps.

Terri A
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In reply to carry <<


Date: 7/17/13 7:08 PM

Yes, I am using view A for sure with the seams. Also, wanting to add the boning as you suggested a bit away from the zipper (on both sides of zipper after moving it to the left side of the dress.)
I will know more when I get past the muslin stage. This dress runs big far bigger than the stated finished measurements with ease, that's for sure.
-- Edited on 7/17/13 7:09 PM --

stirwatersblue
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In reply to Terri A <<


Date: 7/17/13 8:57 PM

Quote: Terri A
Good point! i plan to meet with the girls this weekend and discuss underwear and get measurements etc...The girls range all over in size, from A cup to DD...
Goddess bra!? I think I need to buy me one of those :)

Goddess

You might share this with your DD customer; I was introduced at my wedding, and would never wear anything else. Very flattering and supportive. The bra doesn't fit the model in the photograph well at all (this is a MUCH better photo!), but Amazon has great prices. It's nice that you have the option for straps or strapless with the same bra. (Totally OT, but I also like their sports bras).

------
~Gem in the prairie

Terri A
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 7/17/13 11:34 PM

Thank you for the links, I will pass this onMaybe their vanity will win out for the photo shoot at the wedding. Two of them are photographers:)

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