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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Jeans pattern or class recommendations ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Jeans pattern or class recommendations
how to make jeans without acquiring more stuff in the process
Liz in Cville
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Liz in Cville  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/21/13 10:44 AM

Hi experienced pants-makers!

I'm likely not ready to make jeans yet, but I'd like to start thinking about it, especially since my stash includes several pieces of denim (most of which have a light stretch).

I'm not the hippest chick on the planet, and I don't want to bother with certain details like rivets, but I do want to make something that fits well and doesn't look homemade. So well-made pockets, fly, and topstitching are a must, I assume.

However, I would also like to avoid increasing my enormous stash of patterns, fabric, and notions. So I am wondering whether I can perhaps adapt a pants pattern (or two) I already own for jeans; eg Butterick 5221. I'd want to straighten the legs and use fly instructions from elsewhere. (e.g. Vogue 1051 or Vogue 2907. BTW, aside from the flared legs, those *look* ok for denim pants IMO, but since they appear to be designed for lighter weight/drapier fabrics I am wondering if there is a fundamental difference in construction techniques between them and jeans.)

I am also considering Kenneth King's Jean-ious class, especially if it goes on deep discount (does anyone know whether this class is ever included in 75% off sales? I wouldn't mind paying closer to retail if it's worth it and I'll use it, but it irks me to buy things and then see the price slashed afterward). However, it calls for silk organza for the pattern making, which goes against my "no new stash" policy. Does anyone know whether I can substitute another fabric for that purpose? I actually have a fair amount of beige silk shantung in my stash that is not necessarily in good enough condition for an actual garment (permanently creased and fuzzy), in addition to other "disposable" fabric and some Swedish (sewable) tracing paper.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

-- Edited on 7/21/13 11:00 AM --

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Liz in Cville <<
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Date: 7/21/13 12:47 PM

silk organza for pattern making? Gosh, if I took one of his classes and followed those rules, I'd be broke! I use silk organza only for my pressing cloth. I think he wants something that's stiff enough to act like jeans, as opposed to pants. I'd use the Swedish tracing paper; it's the closest to silk organza that I can see.

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Liz in Cville <<


Date: 7/21/13 12:56 PM

Hi Liz. The patterns you have, look very large in the leg. Is this what you are going for? I know you don't want to have to buy another pattern but... I've been working with the Connie Crawford pattern for some years now and like how it looks(Butterick 5403). Like you, I wanted a pair of jeans without all the hardware. This pattern fits the bill. I get a lot of complements when I wear them. I won't lie, I've had to do a bit of tweaking to get them to fit me and it seems every pair I make, I have to tweak. But I think that is the nature of the beast(and the material used).

Over all this is an easy pattern, with a great "jeans" look.

One of our other PR members, who lives close to me, has just started on this pattern. She liked the way mine looked(I also make capris with this pattern). She came by for a pin fitting about a week ago. I couldn't believe how well the muslin fit her(she did add one inch seam allowances). There was very little to do. I wish my initial fit had been that nice. And I wish I had had a fitting buddy

I see you are in Charlottesville. We will have to meet some day
-- Edited on 7/21/13 12:59 PM --

Kathi R
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Kathi R  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/21/13 1:21 PM

I saw the results of the KK Craftsy class at an ASG meeting and I was really impressed with both the process and the result. You must have a good fitting pair of jeans to start with since the point of the class is to copy an exiting garment. Silk organza is used to create the pattern pieces -- I think poly organza would work nearly as well. It looks like you use heavy thread to mark the grain line on each piece of your jeans, then overlay the organza to copy the finished piece and add seam allowances. The ASG member had an exact copy of her jeans, including a slight dimple in the CB!

I think regular pants patterns are designed to have a lower crotch seam than jeans, so you may need to adjust if you decide to use a non-jeans pattern.

------
2012 : starting stash 386, net additions 206, used 164, ending stash 428...I'm never going to get in front of this pile of fabric!

Liz in Cville
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 7/21/13 2:00 PM

Thanks for the pattern recommendation; I will keep it in mind in case I end up having to buy one.

No, I don't like wide-leg, flared pants; I don't remember what I was thinking when I bought those patterns Maybe I was just desperate and that's all I could find. At any rate, what I plan to do if I ever use them is lay a pair of pants I do like over the pattern and use it as a guide to redraw the legs. I don't know whether that's overly ambitious for a beginner, but I have lots of practice fabric.

Do you live in Cville too?

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Liz in Cville
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Date: 7/21/13 2:07 PM

Thanks, everyone, for the information. I am going to keep an eye on that class!

-- Edited on 7/21/13 2:07 PM --

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simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 7/21/13 2:38 PM

There are a number of differences in the way that a pattern is drafted for a trouser and a jean. The biggest difference is the back crotch. The pattern you linked to is a trouser. You will end up with numerous fit problems trying to change it into a jeans draft.

While I admire that you don't want to add to the stash of stuff, IMHO you'll be much better off starting with a pattern that's already a jeans draft. Pant fitting is hard enough let alone trying to change a trouser to a jean.

Debbie

Liz in Cville
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Liz in Cville  Friend of PR
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 7/21/13 3:14 PM

Thanks, and point taken. I am leaning toward the class; surprisingly, I actually have a pair of jeans that fit!

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simplystitches
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In reply to Liz in Cville <<


Date: 7/21/13 3:59 PM

Quote:
I actually have a pair of jeans that fit!


Lucky you! I can't even come close to a pair of RTW that fit.

Debbie
JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Liz in Cville <<


Date: 7/21/13 4:41 PM

Liz, I live in Richmond. Chris Bryant(another PR person)lives beyond Kings Dominion. We get together for lunch every now and then. We talked about taking a trip up to Cville and checking out some of the fabric stores one day...do lunch and then come on home. Cville is only an hour from my house.

Just a side note: Believe it or not, I've found it easier to fit jeans than slacks. I'm still having problems with the back crotch curve on slacks.
-- Edited on 7/21/13 4:43 PM --

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