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Forum > Fitting Woes > Help me read this chest wrinkle ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help me read this chest wrinkle
Can I do this?
BeckyC
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BeckyC  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/24/13 3:11 PM

I'm making Christine Jonson's Princess Wrap Top #426. I am getting a horizontal wrinkle above the bust and it continues almost to right under the armscye. It's more prominent on my left side, whereas the right side, which is underneath goes at an angle toward my bust.

photo

In the next photo I pinned out 1/4" horizontal fold from neckedge to the armscye thinking I had too much length. I know this will make the the armscye less tall, but an easy fix.

photo

My question will this work or do you see a different issue? My upper/mid back is unaffected I thought maybe I needed a full bust adjustment, but am not convinced I need one as the top is not pulling across the bust or riding up CF. I'm open to suggestions.


-- Edited on 7/24/13 3:34 PM --

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LauraTS
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Date: 7/24/13 5:18 PM

I agree with you; I think it's a length issue. It might be too long in the upper back too, which might be exacerbating some of the wrinkles.

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Lena Merrin
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Date: 7/24/13 9:18 PM

I think it is just the excess length and is easily fixed

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Wino
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Date: 7/24/13 9:18 PM

I do this adjustment all the time. Draw a horizontal line across the pattern, mark the seam line, put a piece of clear tape at the junction, cut just to but not through the seam line on both sides, overlap the pattern to remove the desired amount. This does not change the armscye-you are removing a wedge. True teh pattern piece

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BeckyC
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Date: 7/25/13 11:45 PM

Thank you ladies for your input. I'm pretty sure it is an excess length problem in the upper chest too. My sister said that when she saw it too. I'm going to adjust the pattern to take out 3/8" right across the upper chest - hopefully this will solve the problem, otherwise I'll be back.

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HarrietHomeowner

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In reply to Wino <<


Date: 7/26/13 1:24 PM

I have a question about this: I have the exact same issue but for me, there is a LOT of extra length -- usually 1 1/2 to 2 inches. If you remove a wedge, doesn't that distort the shape too much? I really haven't sewn enough to know how to handle this. It's keeping me from making anything.

Mole Princess
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Date: 7/26/13 1:57 PM

Harriet, a wedge does "distort" the piece and that's exactly why it's used--when needed! Because we aren't standard-sized . . .

So a wedge is used whenever you can see that fabric needs to be removed at one end of a line but not at the other.

Not a silly question, though--just don't want you afraid of wedges!

beauturbo
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Date: 7/26/13 2:09 PM

I think since it's a knit top and stretchy and not really very noticeable at all, I would just ignore it actually. I think it really looks fine.

I think the slight wrinkle there might be since it's kind of tight, right under and across from your arm hole above your bust there on that side of the top, but really it's a wrap top, and has draping below on purpose too, so I would not even worry about it.

If you just wanted to make that go away, since I think it's pulling on you a bit there, I think if you just even stuck a loose shoulder pad under your shoulder on that side that would probably pull it up on the inner neck side on that shoulder and get rid of that wrinkle too. You could try that. If so, just even fold it a bit under on the shoulder seam, and even hand tack it down and I think that might just go away. But it's so slight, I think it looks fine as is actually.

HarrietHomeowner

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In reply to Mole Princess <<


Date: 7/26/13 2:34 PM

Quote: Mole Princess
Harriet, a wedge does "distort" the piece and that's exactly why it's used--when needed! Because we aren't standard-sized . . .



So a wedge is used whenever you can see that fabric needs to be removed at one end of a line but not at the other.



Not a silly question, though--just don't want you afraid of wedges!

Okay, I get that, but in the OP's picture, it looks like the extra length is all the way the across -- that is, there's extra fabric at the armscye as well as at the neckline. And that's what I've noticed on me, as well. Maybe I need to starting with a smaller size to begin with.
FaithM

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In reply to BeckyC <<


Date: 7/26/13 6:50 PM

The first pic shows a little buckling around the side seams on the left (your right) side. The second pic shows the same buckle on the right side. Your bust and waist look pretty close to each other. What happens if you open the side seams around the bust and waist area (thus giving a little more room)? Do the horizontal wrinkles go away?

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