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Eyelet/border fabric
Cut patterns on cross grain to utilize border?
alicia
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alicia  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New York USA
Member since 9/1/03
Posts: 42
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Date: 6/10/05 10:26 PM

OK - here's one I'm just not sure of. I got a really pretty cotton blend eyelet for my daughter that has a border on one selvage edge. It's a lightweight (summer weight) woven. I love it but don't know about applying it to a pattern...

Does anyone who's used something like this have any tips for utilizing it in a pattern? can I set up the pattern on the cross grain instead of the straight grain? I can see this in a cute pair of capris or tops for her but just not sure about the grain.

Mel.J
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Mel.J
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Victoria Australia
Member since 7/30/02
Posts: 2785
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Date: 6/10/05 11:17 PM

Yes, you can cut on the cross.

KatyN's review used eyelet to feature the border. Her review might help.

Mel

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Mel (Melbourne, Australia)

linda_maries

linda_maries
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Wisconsin USA
Member since 11/30/04
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Date: 6/11/05 6:16 AM

I had this question a while ago and was told by some knowledgeable people that it is ok to put the pattern on the cross grain. There is a difference, though, in the drape of the fabric. Also there is a problem of fabric long term stability.
When the fabric is on the loom, the lengthwise threads are stretched taut between two cylinders. The cross wise threads are then woven into the lengthwise and therefore have a looser tension. Over time, a garment goes saggy if cut and hanging on the cross wise grain. For heirloom items, you never want to do hang a garment on the cross. But just for regular clothes, there doesn't need to be this concern. (Although a lot of this depends on the fiber content.) The regular cotton garment will probably wear out before it bags and sags. So it is okay to use the selvage boarder at the hem if you want.

AliceM
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AliceM
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Illinois USA
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Date: 6/11/05 3:48 PM

I've done it with eyelet before with no problems.

NancyDaQ
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NancyDaQ
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New Mexico USA
Member since 1/12/02
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Date: 6/11/05 7:31 PM

I wouldn't worry too much about cutting it on the cross grain. I've done it on eyelets and fabrics that are much less stable and have never encountered a problem.

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Now blogging at http://sewwest.blogspot.com

Muria
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Muria
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Michigan USA
Member since 2/13/05
Posts: 1340
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Date: 6/11/05 11:00 PM

You'd think they would make the cross grain more sturdy on the fabric with a border design since this is pretty much what they're designed for, right? I have some eyelet that I've been thinking about making a dress out of, but have been wimping out of making it (the last thing I made from the pattern turned out huge, and I'd want to do an FBA, which I haven't done before, so I'm a bit nervous about that) by coming up with other projects to do instead, like making my maternity long-sleeve turtlenecks into t-shirts, and sewing pajama bottoms for my son for camp.

The only other problem you might run across with cutting on the cross grain is length of pattern pieces, but usually that's only an issue with a dress. I was planning on adding a seam at the waist to counter this problem with the eyelet dress I was going to make (cut the bottom of the dress on the bordered edge, and cut the bodice to the waistline, plus a seam allowance, in a different area of the fabric since I couldn't fit the whole pattern piece width-wise on the fabric).

What might be interesting, if you'd rather not cut on the cross grain, would be a wrap skirt with the border along the vertical edge of the wrap. Then again, I'm mentally trying to come up with a way to get the border along the side and the bottom now.

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Muria

Where did all this fabric come from? I CAN'T have bought THAT much!

alicia
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alicia  Friend of PR
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New York USA
Member since 9/1/03
Posts: 42
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Date: 6/12/05 7:36 PM

Thanks so much everyone!!! Cross grain it is.

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