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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Finishing crotch seam ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Finishing crotch seam
to serge or not to serge....?
aprilla
aprilla
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Member since 6/2/12
Posts: 367
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Date: 8/2/13 12:10 PM

I discovered Butterick 6766 among my patterns (link to envelope photo) Butterick 6766
so decided to have one more go at pants.
They are a cross between jeans and pants I guess, with a high waist, back yoke and a lap zipper. So that means I can add the yoke to my 'inventory' and I'll have done ordinary centred, fly, invisible and lapped zippers! That's my justification for doing another pants when it's tops I should be making.
The fit is a little 'old-fashioned', the waist being quite high compared to now fashions, but I'm liking it for the type of pant it is. The best pocket position for me I've had in a loooong time, and my faux top-stitching is spectacular! I cheated and used a double needle!! HA!

Anyway.... I'm using a dark gray sortof textured, slightly shiny linen/poly blend. So far it's going fine (fingers still crossed) but I'd just decided I was safe to serge/finish the inside leg seams when I wondered if it is good or bad practise to serge/finish the crotch seam? I don't know why I paused at this, usually I do a thing and then regret it LOL So anyway, I thought I'd ask.... for finishing is it ok to serge the curved crotch seam, or is it better to sew/press/clip? Thanks for any opinions!

ps The step-by-step instructions in this pattern are excellent.

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/2/13 1:36 PM

I would serge the crotch seam especially for this fabric.

aprilla
aprilla
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Date: 8/2/13 2:12 PM

Thanks sewsally, I was hoping for a Yes! I was worried because of the curve though.
Off I go a sergin'.....!

Clareew
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Clareew  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/2/13 3:10 PM

I always stitch the crotch seam once, then I check for fit.

I then sew it again 1/8" into the seam allowance from the previous stitching, I always tape this seam with 1/4" twill tape.

I then serge the seam.

------
Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

http://art-by-clare.blogspot.co.uk/

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/3/13 6:40 AM

Serging my crotch seams gives a sturdy and comfortable wear- if the fabric and fit are correct.
I really love wearing high waisted styles. For me they are the most comfortable.

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

aprilla
aprilla
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Date: 8/3/13 6:54 AM

Thanks guys! All serged up now. I'd noticed a comment on how the clipped crotch seam makes quite a difference to fitting so thought the serged seam mightn't fit so good. It's fine, and nice and clean looking too. Horray!
I had all the fitting done before serging the inside leg ... I learned this the hard hard hard way. I'm convinced the only way to learn sewing is to get things wrong in every way possible, only then do I seem to understand right :)

I like the look of low waisted but prefer high waists to wear too. I just cannot keep these low waisted pants up, need suspenders (or are they for socks?) or braces (whichever's correct). But these are pretty high, I'm considering taking a bit off at the front, maybe. I want to make a top to wear with so will depend how they feel and what the top is like.... not getting top inspiration... hoping something comes to mind while finishing these off :)

cimmanon
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Date: 8/4/13 12:55 PM

Depending on how deep the curve is, you can do both (I do this on lined/faced necklines). Assuming a 5/8" seam allowance, I'll clip about half way through the seam allowance once I'm satisfied with the fit, then trim and surge the seam allowance back to what ends up being 3/8-1/2" when I follow the markings on my serger. My clips end up being the same depth as the serging, so it is all contained. Though a longer clip should be ok too as long as you clip first, then serge.

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 8/4/13 4:05 PM

I'm stumped. I was told at some point in my sewing life, to never clip the crotch seam.

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 8/4/13 4:23 PM

really? you always have to clip it or it won't release. Serging close to the seam solves the problem because it allows it to be a bit stretchy. Do you make pants? What do you do if you don't clip them?

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Marie367 <<
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Date: 8/4/13 6:23 PM

Been making pants for almost 40 years, and never clipped a crotch seam. I do trim them close and over lock the edges.

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